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Calling all south platte rats...

Original Post
Craig Weinhold · · Golden, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 100

As many of you know there is a new south platte guidebook coming out this fall from Fixed Pin publishing. As we have been putting this project together, the term "Platte Rat" keeps coming up. One could say it describes a local south platte climber, but we feel there is a better definition for the famous term.

Does anyone have a good definition of a "platte rat" or what characteristics define one???

Thanks-

Allen Hill · · FIve Points, Colorado and Pine · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 1,410

Maybe at best five people have used the term with any regularity. Olaf loves it. But if you plan on using the term I'd suggest the definition as misanthropic and not so pleased with a actual guide book being published. Hubbel's guides where the shit, people had to get lost a few times to find the crag of their choice. That's the Platte experience.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

The Platte is my backyard and I reject the idea of hiding it from anyone. Call me New School on that one. There is more rock here than a lifetime of visitations can ruin. And, I might add, there are new areas that won't even make it in your guide book being developed as we type. So to the old guard gnashing your teeth about the guide book, your coach has arrived.

rob bauer · · Golden, CO · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 3,929

This might not answer the question directly, but when non-climbers sometimes ask what I like about climbing. [a characteristic] I generally describe for the classic face/friction climbs in the 'Platte is "forays into the improbable." You look up and don't see obvious holds and sometimes you look down and don't see any either; but you climbed it and it's almost unbelievable. Thers's a freedom that cracks don't suggest. Everyone understands obvious holds, but the amazing routes have just enough to get up them without those obvious holds, regardless of the grade. There's an uncertain, almost indescribable, quality about the fact that the few bolts are the common pieces of protection, but that how you get to them is up to how you see everything in between them. It's free and almost magic. No, the feeling IS magic.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

They are actually a pack of large furry beasts that hunt inner children for breakfast

Tom Pierce · · Englewood, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Well, IMO a Platte Rat obviously is someone who climbs almost exclusively in the Platte, who has climbed many/most of the Platte classics, etc., etc.

That aside, I'll put out a vote that those who love the Platte step up to cultivate a influx of new climbers. I've been climbing there for about 20 years and love it...death bolts and all. But when I was doing the Classic D on Bucksnort 15-20 years ago there were 2-3 parties lined up on a good weekend. Now? I was thete 6 weeks ago on a stellar weekend and we had the entire crag to ourself. For the entire day no other parties ever appeared to climb, not a soul. Is Platte climbing in the throes of death? I don't mean the few newish sport areas (Devils Head, etc.), but is hard slab climbing soon to be a lost art? I hope not but when I talk about climbing with young climbers the Platte never even enters the discussion. Sad. Just my perception.
-Tom

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,098

Wow, Tom I think that may be the first time I've ever heard someone depressed they didn't have to wait in line for a climb...

I think the south platte is unknown to the pebble pinchers and sportos, but to the traddies it is an oft-visited paradise.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
Mark Nelson wrote:They are actually a pack of large furry beasts that hunt inner children for breakfast
best definition
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

after surviving a day in the platte, the beer just tastes SOOOO good when you get back to the car. i think one of the characteristics of the platte rat is the compelling urge to explore. the amount of rock is staggering. it always feels good to summit something, then look around and piece everything together. kind of like building a map in your mind.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

no kidding, tom. after years of bitching about the raptor closure over at the spires and getting something reasonable lined out .... crickets. it may take a few years to catch on.

bucksnort is feeling the pain of a-hole. you can't day trip and hit three rocks anymore; might as well turkey it.

however, the inner splatte is seeing some hard work put in; that's probably where the adventure climbing is still felt.

Bill Duncan · · Glade Park, CO · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 3,410
Mark Nelson wrote:They are actually a pack of large furry beasts that hunt inner children for breakfast
Perfect, but I might add:
. . . and enjoy wide cracks after a long approach for lunch, and runout slabs with 1/4" spinners for supper.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Tom Pierce wrote:Is Platte climbing in the throes of death?
Something is always dying, that's for sure.
Tom Pierce · · Englewood, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Yeah, you're right Phil. Guess I shouldn't complain about the solitude, certainly no waiting in line for a climb lately in the Platte. The last few times I've been out in the Platte (eg Big Rock Candy Mt. last week, Bucksnort a few weeks ago) we've had the entire formation to ourselves. Different than what I experienced in years past, but as you suggest, not a bad thing I suppose.

ssimonson09 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
Phil Lauffen wrote:Wow, Tom I think that may be the first time I've ever heard someone depressed they didn't have to wait in line for a climb... I think the south platte is unknown to the pebble pinchers and sportos, but to the traddies it is an oft-visited paradise.
Honestly that feels like any trad area now-a-days. Face it, the vast majority of new climbers will probably never pick up a set of nuts or cams. Most are just as happy as can be bouldering or clipping bolts. That's probably why I only had to wait on a route once last summer at Lumpy Ridge, and I was climbing there almost every weekend because I was living in Estes. There are some people that will see how much more rock opens up when they start getting into trad climbing, but I feel like most people who get into climbing at gym will never get past the 'danger' factor that they perceive exists with trad climbing.

This is especially true when you look at places like the S. Platte, I mean really, it seems like half of the entries on the Mountain Project have descriptions of big runouts and scary bolts. That probably isn't to appealing to someone used to having a solid bolt every couple of feet.
H BL · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 95
ssimonson09 wrote: Honestly that feels like any trad area now-a-days. Face it, the vast majority of new climbers will probably never pick up a set of nuts or cams. Most are just as happy as can be bouldering or clipping bolts. That's probably why I only had to wait on a route once last summer at Lumpy Ridge, and I was climbing there almost every weekend because I was living in Estes. There are some people that will see how much more rock opens up when they start getting into trad climbing, but I feel like most people who get into climbing at gym will never get past the 'danger' factor that they perceive exists with trad climbing. This is especially true when you look at places like the S. Platte, I mean really, it seems like half of the entries on the Mountain Project have descriptions of big runouts and scary bolts. That probably isn't to appealing to someone used to having a solid bolt every couple of feet.
Not to mention that they have to walk more than 10 minutes to climb.

I would not term myself a "Platte Rat" having climbed there a little over a dozen times. But a "rat" doesn't always connote something bad. River Rats from the Navy comes to mind.They were a hardcore bunch of bad asses. IMHO if you're a "PLatte Rat" you're part of an exclusive club.
Allen Hill · · FIve Points, Colorado and Pine · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 1,410
Stich wrote:The Platte is my backyard and I reject the idea of hiding it from anyone. Call me New School on that one. There is more rock here than a lifetime of visitations can ruin. And, I might add, there are new areas that won't even make it in your guide book being developed as we type. So to the old guard gnashing your teeth about the guide book, your coach has arrived.
Huh? Who on earth are you directing this too? Me, the bitter old man who is your age, or to the guide book "authors?"
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Allen Hill wrote: Huh? Who on earth are you directing this too? Me, the bitter old man who is your age, or to the guide book "authors?"
It's directed to the sort of guys that chopped the anchors on measly lines like Crack Parallel in the pile of choss known as Cheyenne Canyon and who still think downclimbing the Martyr is the way to go. You know the type. They hate the idea of a new guide book for the Platte, even though like it has been mentioned most newer climbers don't like the approaches and lack of moderate lines at most crags.

The guide book on the other hand will be a boon to those of us who heard of this place or that place over the years and finally will have a nice resource to make a good day out of it. Been bushwhacking plenty, thank you.
Drew Whitley · · Dolores, CO · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 95

Platte rat=someone who enjoys long bushwhack's to? has had an encounter or two with south platte pricker bushes. Haas seen the elusive south platte centar returning from adventure late in the evening. Lives for mandatory excitement, and full on crack climbing with a big rack. Must enjoy climbing in a amazing setting without others. Also any real platte rat would probably enjoy the fact that you had trouble/never found the crag you were looking for, but thats all in good fun right. There is nothing in the world like a good ol south platte adventure. The platte fits the real definition of trad climbing to me. Call me an elitist but a thorough guidebook might take away a bit of the fun that has been instilled in this area. I hope the new guidebook is chocked full of platte history and neat photos. Im sure i will buy it.

Travis Madsen · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 10
Mark Nelson wrote:They are actually a pack of large furry beasts that hunt inner children for breakfast
+1

With sauce made from gravel and sticker bushes. I love the Platte.
goatboy · · Nederland, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 30

I know a few of those bolt choppers and I also know a couple that over bolt next to cracks...( HI BOB ! ), and most of the folks I've talked to old and noob are happy that the new guidebook is coming out.

Jason is a stand-up guy doing a tough job and everybody knows the south Platte stopped being so secretive when half-ass guide websites like MP and rc.com started up so I really don’t see a problem with more accurate exposure of the area.

As far as a definition for SPR I suggest an old school bouldering party at Sheep's Nose for the book launch, there is this one problem you have to do to get the full dirty rat meaning :)

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

isn't bouldering in the platte kind of like slapping the pope in a house of ill repute?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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