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Call & Response 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 585
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Mar 17, 2008
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Description 

A fun rising traverse over a not so great landing. Sit start or pull on to the rock at the base of the flake. Follow the sloping flake up and left until you gain jugs near the arete, then topout straight up on good holds. The first few moves are the crux, but a fall will usually result is bouncing off of a rock at the bottom.

With a spotter, there is nothing to worry about... unless they don't know how to spot.


Location 

This problem is located on the Old Gold Boulder (aka the Arch). When coming up the trail, this boulder is on your left as you near the top. If you can find the Whip, turn around. This problem climbs the overhanging side. Downclimb a short slab around the corner left of the problem.


Protection 

Pads, spotter



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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 29, 2010

Does this go out left to the obvious left side pull / huge undercling and then up? I think a friend of mine pulled off of the sit start, got a higher right hand on something decent and then a high left foot on top of the start hold. He continued upwards on some edges that weren't horrible.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Nov 29, 2010

Are we describing the same problem? I guess I'd have to be there with you, but it climbs the sloping flake up left into the jugs. There is another problem that goes straight up on crimps and sidepulls.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Dec 4, 2010

Ah, that's what I was failing at describing. They climbed DJ Dan

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 27, 2013
rating: V4 6B

I think the direct version of this line is much better. Basically start the same, move slightly left and then directly up via a couple of crimps and a sidepull. Be mindful of the landing for the move to the lip. Perhaps a little harder.