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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Calisthenic 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Phil Jacobus and John Hudson (1962)
Page Views: 683
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

This climb is really not worth doing, and the latter parts of P2 and P3 have some manky rock. I am 5'7" and had no trouble with the opening jump. My 6'3" partner reached the holds w/o jumping. It's probably best to be sure your second can make the jump so rope stretch does not create an ankle buster. I'd definitely advise against combining pitches for the same reason.

P1 - Jump for the good holds just above the overhang (crux). Work your way up the path of least resistance past some grassy ledges and a lower-angled face to a belay below a left-facing corner.

P2 - Move up the inside corner until the path of least resistance lures you right to the outside corner and up to a ledge. Step right and up the face to the GT ledge.

P3 - Climb the crack and right-facing corner to an overhang, move left (crux) and up to a bolted belay/rap anchor.

There are numerous variations and several ways to go on both the first and second pitches.


Location 

About 35 feet right of the Ribs arete, at a long overhang about 6 feet above the ground.


Protection 

Standard Gunks Rack.



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By micah richard
Sep 5, 2011

This is a nice way to finish up ""ribs"". The third pitch overhang was quite fun. then the climbing gets much easier to the top. my shorter second had trouble getting the jug over the roof, she eventually had to dyno for it.

By Peterpan
May 19, 2014

Good climb, quite technical on the slab about 50 feet up. You need to be a solid 5.8+ climber to lead this without trouble. Good rock all the way to the top.