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The Aspen Glade
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All He's Ever Gonna Have S 
All He's Got S 
Californios S 
Mutt Ridin Monkey S 
Night-Flying Woman S 
Spurs Equal Velocity S 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tom Addison and Greg Jennings
Page Views: 229
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 25, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Moving through the crux


Californios follows a nice line of heavily featured orange stone, beginning slightly overhanging before slowly trending to a slight slab. The line is consistently difficult without much of a distinct crux. Unfortunately the pockets are a bit sharp and the rock is rather crumbly by Wild Iris standards, but this would be a 4-star route at Shelf Road.

Begin up a leaning dihedral to an orange depression, then move left across the bulge on great pockets. Diminishing pockets keep things interesting until the line slabs out.


The furthest right line on the main Aspen Glade wall, climbing a streak of orange lichen-covered rock. Shares anchors with Mutt Ridin Monkey,


~8 bolts to 2BA.

Photos of Californios Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Californios clims the orange lichen-covered stone.
Californios clims the orange lichen-covered stone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up Californios
Moving up Californios

Comments on Californios Add Comment
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Hey Mark,

I noticed that you left the FA portion blank. I don't have my old Piana guide handy, but if this is one of the routes that Piana lists in his guidebook as FA'ed by "guys from California" (or something to that effect) then Tom Addison is most likely the primary FA. I think there may be another 2-3 routes of his down towards Burnt Beans as well. I can ask him exactly which routes are his next time I see him.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 27, 2011

I just checked Steve's book and he lists Joe Desimone (of Face Dancer fame, among others). I think I had this confused with Mutt Ridin Monkey, which shares the same anchor. Steve lists the FA for that route as "unknown".

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