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Glacier Point Apron
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Angel's Approach 
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Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack 
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Variation on a Theme 

Angel's Approach 

5.9 PG13

   

FA: Tom Higgins et al
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Views: 88 page views

Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab, then cut...


Description 

Combined with "Point Beyond Direct" and "Point Beyond", this route is the equal of "Goodrich Pinnacle." Clean and pure slab climbing!

P1 - (5.9) - follow the bolts upwards. About half of these were replaced in 2008. As you approach a large solution hole either traverse right (easier), or tag the hole and then traverse right. Belay at a two-bolt anchor near an overlap.

P2 - (5.8) - more friction up the left edge of some flakes. Move up to a passage between two opposing thin flakes, right of the major overlap. There is decent finger-sized gear here. Continue up the flake to the right to another two-bolt anchor.

P3 - (5.7) - more friction up and right to Lucifer's Ledges.


Location 

Start by getting to the Point Beyond. Left of the Point is a water groove. Just to the right of the groove is a line of bolts heading up towards Lucifer's Ledge.


Protection 

Mostly bolts (about half of which were replaced by the ASCA in the summer of 2008), but you will also want nuts and cams to 2".



Photos of Angel's Approach Slideshow Add Photo
Randy decided to ditch his shirt and the pack.  Naturally the clouds rolled in soon thereafter.

Randy decided to ditch his shirt and the pack. Na...

Randy on P2

Randy on P2