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Royal Arches
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Arches Terrace  

5.8 R

   

FA: Rich Calderwood and Merle Alley, 1957
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 500 feet
Views: 203 page views

Submitted By: Sheets on Nov 17, 2008


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Description 

The climb begins on a left facing grassy open book which doesn't look too fun. One can climb this at 5.8 or take one of the bolted routes nearby up to the first pitche's belay bolts.

From here the climb gets fun. Four bolts protect a somewhat runout face traverse (5.7-8). The climbing here is wild and fun with the runout no longer than 40 feet at most. One traverses to a corner where easy climbing takes you to a new set of belay bolts.

From this belay runout face moves takes one to a weird flaring wide groove. Dirty pin scars provide protection for the awkward yet fun climbing up to a big tree.

From here many people rappel but the climb continues up obvious cracks and ledges for another two pitches. At the top one can rappel the Arches Terrace Direct route.

This basically a fun old school Valley route.


Location 

To find the climb go past the chimney start of Royal Arches until you find a mungy looking left open book on an 800 ft blank slabby wall. This is the start of Arches Terrace.


Protection 

Standard Valley rack. Aliens are good for the pin scars. The route was recently rebolted so rapelling it is easy.