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West Face
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Trad, 1800 ft (545 m), 20 pitches, Grade IV |
FA: | FA 1967 TM Herbert & Royal Robbins FFA 1979 Ray Jardine and Bill Price |
Page Views: | 33,810 total · 160/month |
Shared By: | David Trippett on Nov 19, 2007 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
My Memory is a bit sketchy on some of the pitches....feel free to offer corrections....
P1 11b slabby, bolt protected face crux starting off of a platform.
P2 11b Thin, left arching crack undercling/layback. Lots of fixed gear
P3 10a Slightly flaring thin corner,
P4 Big Traverse.
P5 10a Cool 10a arete/bulge move following by incredible 5.8 climbing, on atypically Yosemite sculpted jugs which turn out to be the trademark of the climb. Pay attention here, easy to get on the wrong crack.
Link Pitches 6&7 with a 70m rope(68m)....but save some gear for the anchor!
P6+P7 11c Long thin stemming corner with a oddly placed anchor at the crux. This will be the route crux for most. This anchor is not the end, keep going past the crux to the belay ledge above. With a 70m, you will have little rope to spare.
P8 11c A fantastic short but strenous 30' (?) overhanging hand and finger crack;
P9 7 Traverse to move belay.
P10 10b Delicate 10 face moves to a nice 5.8 crack.
P11 10b Incredibly beautiful pitch -- a lot of it steep. uncharacteristic well placed gigantic jugs and gorgeous rock..
P12 5.8 Easy climbing on face and cracks
P13 9 Another fun jug-ridden pitch.
-Link pitches 14 & 15 w 70m rope-
P14 10d Great steep thin crack then delicate face.
P15 7 classic long 5.7 corner pitch
P16 2nd class move to the other end of the Thanksgiving ledge.
P17 - 20 forgettable and rambling mid 5th....pick your poison The "route" effectively is over after Thanksgiving Ledge....we soloed out.
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