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Butterballs 

5.11c

   

FA: Henry Barber, May 1973
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 2,180 page views

Submitted By: caughtinside on Mar 26, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Megan on Butterballs. Photo by Marc Horan.


Description 

Splitter fingers straight up the center of the Nabisco wall. Vertical on strenuous fingerlocks, with the occasional diorite bump barely protruding for feet. Sustained and classic. Think about Bachar or Croft soloing this thing when you're on it.


Location 

On the Nabisco Wall, just left of Wheat Thin. Access it by Waverly Wafer or Beverly's Tower.


Protection 

Both the bottom belay and the top belay are bolted, all thin to 1" gear in between. Remember this was originally led on all nuts!



Photos of Butterballs Slideshow Add Photo
The classic finger crack:  Butterballs

The classic finger crack: Butterballs

looking stylish on butterballs

looking stylish on butterballs

Butterballs is very sustained and splitter the whole way

Butterballs is very sustained and splitter the who...

totally *****

totally *****

Security

Security

Nearing the end of Butterballs<br />

Nearing the end of Butterballs


Mark Wilford on Butterballs.

Mark Wilford on Butterballs.

Butterballs, one of the best finger cracks in the Valley

Butterballs, one of the best finger cracks in the ...


Comments on Butterballs Add Comment
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 17, 2007

If this pitch is not 4-stars, then I don't know what is.

By Nick Stayner
From: Tuolumne Meadows
Oct 22, 2008

I would disagree with the original poster's gear beta. I took this:

2 blue TCU (or .3 camalot/yellow C3)
3 .4 camalots
3 .5 camalots
1 .75 camalot

That does a perfect job of stiching it up (if you can hang on long enough to place it!).

By Brad G
From: Yosemite, CA
Nov 5, 2008

The upper half of this route will feel hard if you have thin fingers. This is defintally one of the best finger cracks in the Valley.

By BenL
Jan 27, 2009
rating: 5.11c

for those with small fingers, I think it is a good idea to tape up more than usually, it's much easier if your finger are fairly big!

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 27, 2009

Taping for "size" is beyond ghey.

By BenL
Feb 6, 2009
rating: 5.11c

ok. didn't know that. good you told me. thanks for the laugh.