This is a good route that has a bit of loose rock on it. The first 3 pitches are nice sustained 5.8/9, then the 5-7th pitches get harder. The 5th goes up a corner and you've got to get out of the corner and around the arete to the right. My friend Alex took a chunk out of the arete here. Then the next pitch is classic Kor 5.9. You'll feel a total body pump by the time you get to the belay.
Location
Right side of a big drainage. You'll be able to see folks on the East Buttress from the base. Climb starts up on a ledge.
Protection
Standard valley rack. Belays are fixed to rap. No bolts on any pitches for pro.
The belay/rap anchors at the top of the 4th pitch have wobbly bolts! They look new, but when I weighted them , the left one flexed in its hole. The right bolt seemed more solid, but both had loose nuts. It held my 200 lbs on the rap, but I was reticent to shock load or bounce at all on the rap.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Aug 26, 2008
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