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Little John, Right 

5.8

   

FA: Jack Turner and Royal Robbins, April, 1962.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Views: 963 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 25, 2006


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Kelly leading pitch 2, approaching the improbable ...


Description 

About 120' uphill from Moby Dick-Right Side is this 160 foot slab with a tree at the top.
This climbs a right facing corner with a small roof, 20' up. Continue up to a belay.
Continue up cracks to "The Improbable Traverse", to the left.
Belay at the base of a shallow, flared dihedral, leading to the top.


Protection 

Pro to 2.25".



Photos of Little John, Right Slideshow Add Photo
Chuck leading near the top of pitch 3, almost at the huge ledge.

Chuck leading near the top of pitch 3, almost at t...

noal leading pitch two.

noal leading pitch two.


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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Oct 11, 2008

Funny how the traverse is called "improbable." We thought it was pretty simple. Fun climb (first pitch was just so-so) to a perfect ledge.
It makes you almost feel like you are really on the big guy. But then you hear someone WAY up above you yell something and it puts you back in your place.

By jpvandever
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 6, 2009
rating: 5.8+

Fun and challenging 5.8 climb. If belaying at the bolted anchors above the first pitch (Supertopo belay), be sure to extend pieces low on P2 to avoid rope drag once you get to the traverse. Leader can protect the "improbable" traverse for second by placing cam high in second vertical crack, midway across the P2 traverse. Can rappel from top of third pitch using bolted anchor and chains at the left end of the ledge (above Little John, left) with a 60m rope down to 3rd class ledges, or all the way to the ground with a 70m rope.