To the right of the center route. Climb the short thin crack in the left-facing corner to a ledge. Continue climbing up a sweet chimney to a large ledge and belay. Move out to the edge of the chimney, then continue up an awesome chimney to the top of a giant flake with slings. Follow 5.9 hands to the top of The Cookie.
My first real gear lead, of course I was sandbagged into it, there's really not that much pro at all, just a bunch of full body chimneying. Be ready for 20ft.+ of chimneying before getting pro. This happens about 3 times. Bring a few cams, leave the hexs at home! This route is very old school, bring the cajones.
By Sevve Stember From: St. Paul, MN Jun 5, 2009 rating: 5.9+ R
I agree with the gentleman above. The 2nd pitch is the truly run out pitch. the chimney goes for a solid 25ft of no pro and very physical chimney moves. Cojones and gumption definitely needed!
RSS Feed
