Portions of this area is closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged.
East of Glacier Point Apron. Closure includes all routes above 200 feet from the base of the cliff east of Glacier Point Apron including "A Mother's Lament" to the Illilouette Gorge.
The conga line on Grack. In order to miss the crow...
Description
On the east side of the apron a great finger crack ascends in a rightward sloping direction. Easy protection on a moderate angle make this a classic beginners route.
Pitch 1 - (5.5) Go directly up the easy slabs along a left facing dihedral until it is overlapped by a right facing one. Continue up into the crack.
Pitch 2 - (5.6) Follow the crack as it slowly slopes to the right. At one point perfect double finger cracks open up.
Pitch 3 - (5.6) Continue up the crack until it fades out then either go up and left (easier) or go directly to the double bolt anchors across the face (a bit more difficult).
Descend the route by rapping the bolt anchors on The Grack - Marginal (if it is clear). This can be done in two raps with a 60m. Make sure you use the second bolt anchors if attempting to do it in two raps. If Marginal is crowded then you can go to the south (climbers left) and rap off blocks and trees.
Location
Once you are at the apron it is easiest to find The Grack by looking for the long line of people waiting to climb it. If by some chance the route is devoid of people look for the most worn finger crack on the wall. It is so worn that it is visible from across the valley.
Protection
Gear to 2 inches with a focus on small nuts and cams.
This is a great climb in the Valley. Get up early, because this is a heavy traffic area. P2 was the best pitch for me... a nice low angle crack. The last time I climbed this route I ran into two bats chillin' in the crack on the second pitch! Fortunately, they did not bite... There is always word of large rockfall in this area, so climbers beware.
By Sergio P From: Idaho Springs, CO Jun 24, 2007 rating: 5.6
With a 70m rope you can link pitch 2 & 3. Also, rapping with a 70m works fine.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO May 15, 2009
This is a great route! P2 is definitely one of the best easy pitches in the Valley. Get there early to avoid the crowd and the relentless sun.
For a fun variation, start to the right of the left facing corner and do the slab/friction up to the juggy moves over the bulge. P2/3 is beautiful hands/fingers/tips with great feet the whole way.
We did it Sunday 8/30 and we were the only ones on that side of the apron. Could have been because it was 90 degrees and in the morning sun but still cool to have it all to ourselves. Super fun, sustained moderate climb. Highly recommended.
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