Right leaning crack starts off ledge about 30' up Climb 5.6 friction (no pro) straight up to slightly right-leaning crack [or it looks like a corner system just to the left is protectable - then traverse right]. First pitch - good pro & moves to sloping ledge - 195' 5.7 2nd & 3rd pitches As per J. Albers (from comments) The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for. The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts. Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb. Cheers.
Location
About 50' right of Holdless Horror (not the crack 20' right - thats "Side Out 5.8R)
I got run off after the first pitch by a thunderstorm: easy 2 rope rope off chain anchors 15' right on that sloping ledge; any info on the 2nd & 3rd pitches appreciated. I liked the first pitch better than Holdless Horror.
By J. Albers From: California Sep 28, 2009 rating: 5.7
Karl, The first pitch belay is actually in a scoop about 30 feet below the bolts you mentioned, though using the bolts is fine as long as nobody is using them for the face climb they are there for. The second pitch continues up the crack past a bulge (bring a 4 inch piece for the bulge) and up the nice hand crack to a another scoop to belay...maybe 120-130 feet from the bolts. Third pitch continues until the crack ends and you are on 4th class, belay where you can. You can then climb out on 4th class from this belay, though many will want a belay for the last bit of 4th class to the top of the dome (it is exposed). Enjoyable climb. Cheers.
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