A super quality cliff with mid-day to sunset sun exposure. Most route require face/knob climbing. This area has a mix or old and new classics.
Getting There
From the huge parking area across from low profile Dome, walk through the bog in to the woods till you hit a trail. Take this to the east (left) keeping an eye out for trail/cairn on the right after 1/4 mile. Walk this steep trail up hill to the wall. Descent: walk off SW and check out the top of this really cool dome. Be very careful not to step on any of the plants who make there hard fought homes on the top.
P1- grovely approach pitch up some dirty ledges and knobs up to a 8 foot 4" OW that you can kind of finagle through on face holds. Not fun. But, it puts you on a good belay ledge. 40'P2- Fabulous!! Start up a finger crack in the shallow corner. Good gear and knobs appear for feet when it looks like things will get challenging. The fingercrack hits the main crack after 30 feet, and it is hands glory for about 100 feet! Really nice crack, goe...[more]
That approach trail plunges straight down the fall line and will eventually turn into a washed-out gully. It needs to get moved to the lower-angled, rockier terrain to the east beneath Super Chicken.
Medlicott Dome East End
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