Excellent rock, and varied climbing make this a nice casual outing. Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral. This dihedral is obvious when looking at the crag from the road as the crescent shaped crack splitting the dome, sort of right-center with a smooth-ish face to it's left.
Pitch one (5.6) climbs the easy dihedral for about 70 feet, and then traverses straight right around the corner to a belay.
Pitch two (5.7) climbs a short steep crack, sort of up & left from the belay, and heads back to the main corner for a semi long pitch with good crack.
Pitch 3 (5.7) is a classic. It goes up the corner a few more feet, then traverses out onto the face towards a bolt. Clip the bolt, then go up huge vertical jugs on a golden face for about 100 feet. You basically have to run out this section. It is steep, but the jugs and knobs are gigantic. I tried slinging a chickenhead about halfway through the runout, but, it wasn't happening. No worries though, it is all positive. The pitch meets back up with the corner for a belay.
Pitch 4 (5.7) goes the rest of the way up the corner, and jogs out to the face for a couple moves. Top out on a really nice summit.
Walk off to the climbers left down an easy gully. Don't go too far left, you are looking for a narrow gully system. Reverse the walk off for Drug Dome once at the bottom of Mariuolumne Dome.
Location
Start off the right end of the ledge described under the rock section, in a left facing dihedral.
A good way to do this route if you're confident on 5.7 terrain: Lead up the corner and build a belay right before the traverse left onto the golden plates. This requires maybe ~60' of simuling w/ a 60m rope. Then lead up the next pitch to the top, which requires maybe 70' of simuling.
Main Wall
RSS Feed
