P1: Lieback to fingers to a small belay stance (or continue up to large ledge with pine tree). (5.9)
P2: Hands to a wide pod to a ledge. (5.8)
P3: Sustained fingers (5.7) through a couple of small roofs to a ledge. (5.8)
P4: Incipient cracks up to and over scary flake. Traverse up and right past two pins to huge "Crescent Ledge." (5.8)
P5: Follow right-facing dihedral on left side of ledge up, increasing in difficulty (5.6), or traverse left to the 5.5 R flakes. (5.6)
P6: Another dihedral up and left. Where it really steepens, step right onto the face past knobs and small placements. Either lieback on the right-hand side of the roof (5.7), or pull straight through at a pin (5.9).
P7: Follow ledges up and right, staying toward easier ground. (5.7 start, then 5.4)
About four more pitches of easy ground. Simul what you can. (mostly 5.0, occasional 5.4 to 5.6)
Location
Park in a large parking area on the south side of the road. Follow obvious and signed trails to the slabs at the base of the dome. Take 3rd class slabs to the start of the route.
Descent: walk off the back side, and most of the way back to the start of the climb to regain climber trails back to the road.
Protection
Standard Rack up to #3 Camalot. Plus double nuts for the 400 feet or so of simul-climbing.
You can link 1&2 with a 60m rope and about 20' of simul climbing. Climb past the tree on your left at the 200' mark and have your second start climbing as you continue up a handcrack to a stance on a nice ledge below the awesome finger crack of P3. The belay requires thin finger to finger sized pieces as I recall. From here you can make it to Crescent Ledge in two pitches and avoid the crappy hanging belay.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 23, 2007
Agree with Blitzo, the climbing isnt spectacular but certainly fun. Lots more enjoyable stuff to do if there is a line. There was a little water seepage in the crack on the first pitch 9/7/09, not a problem at all. The first 4 pitches as we did it (up to pitch 6 in ST) were enjoyable. After that its a 4th class romp to the top with one or two moves of very easy 5th mixed in. We linked pitches 3 and 4 as well as 5 and 6 with a 70m. Simul-climbed to the top from the end of pitch 6 in the ST guide. If you are a fast party and you arent behind a slow party it is certainly possible to do this car to car in under 3 even belaying out the first half of the climb.
outstanding route- good quality and interesting climbing the entire way. if you're crafty, you can get to the top of the interesting climbing in 4 70m rope lengths (or 5 if you dont like that upper traverse), then two more long lengths to the top.
take the supertaco rack if you do it this way for enough gear.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
