South Crack is a great climb that begins with several pitches of gradually steepening clean 5.8 finger cracks and then finishes with some rather run out 5.7+ slabs to the summit.
Begin at the southernmost foot of the dome, right of the Great White Book. Scramble up 4th class ledges and low angle rock towards the obvious crack/flake system until it becomes necessary to belay. Depending on your comfort level (or willingness to simul), you can eliminate a lot of belays by pushing the approach high. At the end of the cracks you'll find some wandering, unprotected slabs that lead to the summit. It may be best to head relatively straight up (easier), or to link small features (pro).
Been doing this climb and leading others on it for 30 years. It's one of the best in Tuolumne.
By Karl K From: Phoenix, AZ Aug 5, 2008 rating: 5.8 R
Probably my favorite climb in Tuolumne... With a 60m rope, start with a short pitch to the top of the 5.4 pillar (just before the step right). Now P2 is a single, long 5.8 finger crack pitch to the great ledge. P3 follows the crack up and right until it peters out. The traditional route goes up and part the left side of the roof and is 5.7 (runout). I prefer to go up and right on runout 5.5 face (see SuperTopo) and then finish on the easy (and well protected) class 5 & class 4 corner to the top. I think the right variation is much less scary (really only a 20 & 25' runout on 5.5) and makes it possible to avoid a cluster of climbers on the left.
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