P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.
P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.
P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.
P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.
I just did this route. It is an excellent first Tuolumne lead for an intermediate climber with limited multi-pitch lead experience. Truly what earns this climb three stars is the sustained nature of the lieback. It may sound silly to say about a 5.7. lieback... but it doesn't let up. I might subtract 1/2 of a star from the 3 simply because the crux pitch is not a full rope length. Don't miss this one unless the lineup looks like a zoo.
By Karl K From: Phoenix, AZ Aug 7, 2009 rating: 5.7 PG13
A good line, but I found it to be much less fun than say "South Crack" or "The Boltway". More awkward. Second pitch corner is sustained and can be hard to see your pro as you place it. Third pitch is a bit runout - my smallest cam did not fit in the tiny crack near the end. Fourth pitch is pretty straighforward.
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 17, 2009 rating: 5.7
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