Matt Grieger takes in the view from 11 pitches off...
Description
Magic Dragon is supposedly the longest climb in the Needles at 10-12 pitches and very enjoyable.
From the approach trail into the Needles, split off to the right at the saddle before ascending up to the foot of the lookout tower stairs. Follow a decent trail down and generally south and east. It's worthwhile to stay on the trail which is marked by little faded red bows tied in various trees and bushes. Eventually you will reach the sheer west face of the Magician (which, incidentally, has a few short, nice-looking crack climbs). Continue to descend until it is possible to traverse all the way around to the southern foot of the formation. Pick your line at this point: The climb generally follows the ridge for several pitches until a key (fairly obvious) point where the right side cliffs out and you can cross over to slabs on the left side. This is a little past halfway. The first of these upper slabs is the crux - a wandering, mostly unprotected journey up 5.8+ rock, 20-40 feet left of a long, left-facing corner system (which, if you don't want to run it out, can be climbed at 5.10 with gear). Continue up slabs to a headwall below the lookout tower. This can be surmounted on the left (west) via a number of weaknesses. Follow the ridge to the tower, hop the handrail, take in the view, and descend the steps.
A few notes:
I didn't lead this climb or break it into pitches, so my description is pretty vague, but the route is fairly easy to follow and I suspect a standard rack would be just fine.
Several of the pitches, especially the upper slabs, had bolted belays (generally old bolts at stances) that you can use as landmarks.
Remember not to approach the lookout tower before 9 AM or after 6 PM as the resident values her privacy!!!
I can't say I recommend this climb as a secure free solo.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 24, 2006
The preferred start to Magic Dragon is via Black Magic. This variation starts in a gaping left-facing corner/chimney and follows cracks/gully up the western face of the Magician for two long pitches (5.7). The top of Black Magic intersects Magic Dragon at a sprawling ledge.
From here, be sure to TR the outstanding "Silence of the Clams" (5.10+). This can be TRed as one long pitch with a 60m rope.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 24, 2006
The clear crux of Magic Dragon is on the 3rd pitch, in a massive left-facing corner above the sprawling ledge where Black Magic converges. With decent 1/2-3/4" gear (and a hopelessly stuck cam) below you, pull up over an awkward, sloping bulge.
One more long crack/corner pitch leads to endless slab climbing (although some stay right, pull a few slab moves, and take another corner system--this time, right-facing--up for a long pitch to a small pine tree).
From here, the route finding gets interesting. Long pitches of unprotected 5.5 slab climbing connect hard to find three-bolt anchors. All anchors were 1/4" bolts at last check. Each successive pitch gets lower-angle and easier.
The final short, 5.8 offwidth pitch protects with a single 4" piece.
The single best descent information can be found at ASCA
There is a great variation (many of them, actually, but at least one of them keeps the grade at 5.8 and restores some excitement to the latter half of the route) near the top, which (I think) everyone should try. Instead of hemming to the left near the end of the route, if you instead aim for the ships-prow formation and go around to the right, a very exciting move protected by a craptacular girth-hitched knob (no feet; jump, heel-hook, and mantel to get going) will put you right on top of the rock and level with the lookout. Great way to wrap up a leisurely route with a bit spicier finish.
Also, Eddie is now selling old copies of the 1st edition guidebook on eBay. Personally, I'd go for Randy Vogel's "SoCal Select" but there's not near the amount of history in that tome as Eddie's.
By Floridaputz From: Oakland Park, Florida Sep 2, 2008
We did the black magic start. P3 is the business with a thoughtful little overhang. This climb is a lot of fun. The position and exposure on the huge slab is great, and the views of the other needles. The finish, we took the east side, is the sh*t, climbing right into the watch tower. That really makes it classic.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 5, 2009
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Oct 5, 2009
There are two great new ASCA bolted rap stations on the West side of the formation (away from the other Needles) directly under the fire lookout. Down about 15 feet on a great shelf. One 60m rope and two raps down and towards the approach stairs put your right in a gully near the base of the stairs past the locked stairs gate.
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