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The Sorcerer's Apprentice
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Broomsticks 
Love Potion No. 9 

Love Potion No. 9 

5.10a PG13

   

FA: Paul & Paul
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 2 pitches
Views: 809 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006


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Josh Janes on the second pitch of Love Potion @POU...


Description 

This is an enjoyable and easy climb that doesn't see too much traffic. Finding the start is a little tricky -- see the area description for details.

P1: Climb up intermittent cracks and fins of rock to a face with a few widely spaced bolts. Belay at a stance with a bolted anchor. A long pitch, 5.9+.

P2: Climb up ever steepening face past four or five bolts, then turn the corner around the right. Save a sling for a crucial knob tie-off!!! Continue traversing right and then up to a bolted belay. Rap straight down the Piranha/Parasite wall with two ropes.


Protection 

A light rack plus quickdraws and slings.



Photos of Love Potion No. 9 Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan Crochiere high on the arete on the super runout 3rd pitch of Love Potion #9. Slung horn, slung knob and a marginal nut is all you get for the whole pitch.

Ryan Crochiere high on the arete on the super runo...


Comments on Love Potion No. 9 Add Comment
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By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Jul 24, 2007

Pitch 1 is runnout. Pitch 2 is the crux and is well protected.

By caughtinside
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 21, 2008

The Needles guide shows 5 bolts on the first pitch, we only found 4.

We approached from the West side, and it was a huge PITA. Suggest try approaching from the Wizard/Sorcerer notch?

Also, this climb has a third pitch! It goes to the summit of the Sorcerer's apprentice, where you can 4th class off to the west. The third pitch is 5.7 RRR. It is drawn in the old guide, you can see the dotted line. 140 feet of climbing on bomber rock, protected by a slung horn 10 feet up, a slung knob 80 feet up, and a crappy nut 100 feet up.

Fantastic face climbing. P1 and P2 are reasonable, P3 is scary.