BETA PHOTO: This summit shot, taken atop Spooky, shows the app...
Description
Spooky is Marge's cat. It is also a great "end-of-the day climb" - especially after rapping off of the Sorcerer as it begins from the Sorcerer/Charlatan notch.
P1: Climb up a fairly easy slab/face on the SW corner of the Charlatan to an obvious ledge below a right-facing corner with an offwidth in the back. Belay here, or, if you runner your gear well, continue on.
P2: Ascend the OW (crux), and then continue more easily up the face and ribs of rock above. Belay at bolts on the summit.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 23, 2006
The first pitch that I remember is a sustained 5.8+ lieback/dihedral--and the best climbing on the route.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 23, 2006
For those uninitiated to the Needles, a great way to ease into the intense exposure of the area is to top-rope Spooky from the bolted anchor near the top of the formation. See the summit shot above for the approximate location. This requires a 60 meter rope.
Rappelling in from the top is also an expedient way to access the start.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Jan 16, 2008
It was fun, but seems a bit overrated? A climbing mag write up? There are numerous better routes at the Needles. This is a fun one to top out after doing something on the Sorcerer.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 5, 2009