Descend into the main amphitheater and locate the first obvious crack system that splits the entire Witch ground to summit. This system is immediately right (and well below) the obvious traverse crack of Airy Interlude.
P1: Climb a really long, sustained hand crack through bulges to a belay stance. 5.9+
P2: Climb a really long, sustained hand crack through bulges to a sloping ledge system. 5.9+
P3: Take off from the right end of the big, sloping ledge up a wild crack system that breaches a roof using jugs. Run this all the way to the summit on easier terrain. 5.9+
Descend north - see the Witch description for more info.
Protection
Double set of cams (possibly triples) to #3 Camalot.
Good news for climbers on a budget: with a little confidence, I'd say this route is easily done on a single set of cams. I brought doubles in the 1"-3" range, as suggested, but never used them. On the third pitch, I used almost entirely nuts. May not be the best idea, however, if you're not comfortable with the grade or not used to crack climbing. When I did it in fall, pitches 1 & 2 remained almost completely shaded (brrrrrrr) while pitch 3 got sun in the afternoon.
Standing at the bottom of pitch 3, it was hard to believe it was going to go at 5.9. But it did, and with good stances for placing pro.
By ttriche From: Altadena, CA Jul 3, 2008 rating: 5.9
P1 and P2 are really 5.8+ ... especially if you normalize the grades against the wild and wooly pitch 3. In my opinion the "correct" way to do the first pitches is to chain them together and have your belayer simulclimb for 10-20 feet as you finish the lead. Don't fall on the slippery slab move if you use this strategy. Whoever mentioned that P3 protects with almost exclusively nuts is spot on -- you barely need any cams, maybe a few 0.5" to 1" pieces if you like, for the last pitch. Just sack up and fire the moves and you will feel like a hero, especially if you are a 5.9 leader! A few brass nuts are helpful for some of the thinner placements towards the top of the 3rd pitch.
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Sep 29, 2008
Actually...
I found P1 and P2 to be the physical crux of the route. Perhaps I'm silly. P3, while cerainly a smorgasborg of steep jugs and jam-cracks, seemed to have myriad stances to rest and place gear. Of course, I'm not out to bicker about grades. The whole route is sustained, both in brilliance, location, and incentive (awesome summit). I agree with previous suggestions to double up on cams, and to bring a full set of nuts. P3 swallows stoppers. I think I only placed one or two cams on the entire pitch.
Also, Margee made some unbelievable mint cookies that day.
I agree with Andy, I'd say the grades of all three pitches are about the same, and although you can do it on one, having the two sets isn't a horrible idea - especially if you want to do it in about two pitches. And, best of all, Margee is amazing as are her mint cookies.
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