Windjammer starts well down on the lower face of the Dome and takes one of the longest lines to the summit. On your way down you'll pass Tobin's Dihedral and then a large pillar/block that rests against the face. The face is obvious -- a sea of giant knobs and chickenheads. The remains of an old motorcycle are in the woods near the start.
P1: This is a unique and amazing pitch. Begin by lassoing an obvious knob 20' up with the rope (it helps to stand up on a block to do this), and then delicately TR through the crux, hoping the rope doesn't fall down, until you can sling the knob for pro. The line trends leftwards and has a fair amount of traversing. Pro consists entirely of slung knobs (although I did slot in a wire between chickenheads at on point). Three times on the climb I pulled up several armloads of slack and lassoed chickenheads above to protect the climbing. Simply unreal. Belay at a two-bolt anchor. 5.10 R.
P2: If my memory serves me, one continus up on slabby rock and then enters a beautiful lieback hand crack and follows this to the next belay. I believe there were a few old bolts (in need of replacement) protecting some slab moves on this pitch. 5.10 PG13.
P3: Continue up on easier, bolt protected, slab to any of a number of anchors on low angle rock below a long roof band. Scramble off left under the roof to the summit, or rap with two ropes. 5.9+ PG13.
Protection
A very light rack plus a dozen shoulder-length slings. Rodeo skills.
A few points; Windjammer is not past Tobin's Dihedral, but rather before. In fact, the best way to locate it might be to find Tobin's and work right. I believe the hardest moves are at the start, while protected by the the "rope over chickenhead". The crux may be feeling your way through the route, as the path isn't always obvious.
The first pitch could be considered runout for both leader and follower as it traverses quite a bit at the first dike feature. However, the climbing is not at grade.
The first belay is two modern bolts with rings, I don't know the distance to the ground. However, we did scope some slings lower and left that could be an intermediate station. The second pitch is quite fun, the crack is very easy. The second bolt is impossible to see from the top of the crack, but the way is fairly obvious.
A dozen might not be enough slings, as you need to both sling the knobs, and extend them.
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Aug 21, 2008
Agreed. The route is located right (north) of Tobin's, Left Crack, and Arch Bitch-Up
Dome Rock
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