Mountain Project: Climbing The Needles / Kern River

The upper Kern River Valley, in Sequoia National Forest, is a true outdoor paradise. The area is home to outstanding white water kayaking, fishing, mountain biking and hiking. Natural wonders include the "Grand Canyon of the Kern River" (a scenic waterway cut by the mighty Kern), the southern-most stand of old-growth Giant Sequoias and countless waterfalls, natural water slides, and plunge pools.

AND THEN THERE'S THE CLIMBING.

The area is home to the world famous Needles and several other truly outstanding formations, including Dome Rock and Elephant Knob. It has been said that the Needles themselves are home to the highest density of classic routes anywhere. This is not an overstatement. The overshadowed lesser formations are worthwhile destinations in their own right and should not be overlooked.

Getting There

The Kern River Valley is quite large, so for directions see the description for the specific sub-area you wish to visit

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Needles / Kern River:

The Lieback 5.5 Trad, 2 pitches Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...

Tree Route 5.6 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Dome Rock

Magic Dragon 5.8 R Trad, 10 pitches The Needles : The Magician

White Punks on Dope 5.8+ PG13 Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III The Needles : Voodoo Dome

Innersanctum 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II The Needles : The Witch

Spooky 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet The Needles : The Charlatan

Igor Unchained 5.9+ Trad, 3 pitches The Needles : The Witch

Anti-Jello Crack 5.10a Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II Dome Rock

Love Potion No. 9 5.10a PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches The Needles : The Sorcerer's Apprentice

The Howling 5.10a PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches The Needles : The Warlock

Airy Interlude 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches The Needles : The Witch

Thin Ice 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches The Needles : The Sorcerer

Fancy Free 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches The Needles : The Charlatan

Spook Book 5.10+ R Trad, 4 pitches The Needles : The Witch

Lost at Sea 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch The Needles : The Sorcerer

The Don Juan Wall 5.11b Trad, 5 pitches The Needles : The Sorcerer

Ice Pirates 5.11b Trad, 2 pitches The Needles : The Sorcerer

Ankles Away 5.11 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet The Needles : The Witch

Atlantis 5.11+ PG13 Trad, 4 pitches The Needles : The Sorcerer

Romantic Warrior 5.12b Trad, 9 pitches The Needles : The Warlock

Featured Route For The Needles / Kern River

Josh Janes on the second pitch of Love Potion #9, Needles.

Love Potion No. 9 5.10a PG13 CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : The Sorcerer's Apprentice

This is an enjoyable and easy climb that doesn't see too much traffic. Finding the start is a little tricky -- see the area description for details.P1: Climb up intermittent cracks and fins of rock to a face with a few widely spaced bolts. Belay at a stance with a bolted anchor. A long pitch, 5.9+.P2: Climb up ever steepening face past four or five bolts, then turn the corner around the right. Save a sling for a crucial knob tie-off!!! Con...[more] Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Needles / Kern River

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Just past the crux. Anon.	Photo from inside the lookout showing the resupply...	My son Josh standing atop the Charlatan when he vi...
Josh and I standing atop the Charlatan, photo take...	Here I am at the Rectory...on a Herb Laeger route,...	secret swimming hole... (scan)
Northern Pacific Rattlesnake, spotted near the Fir...	Needles lookout sign	The Needles
Black Bears are a common sight throughout the Kern...	Horned Lizard--another of the extraordinary creatu...

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The Needles / Kern River

Description

Getting There

The Classics