The Green Arch is one of Tahquiz's greatest climbs. It follows a striking corner to the right of the Open Book (5.9). An amazing climb you don’t want to miss. And yes, it's sandbagged.
Pitch one: Start about 100 feet below were the arch begins and climb past a few pitons and one bolt to a small ledge where the arch begins (5.10+).
Pitch two: The crux. Stem your way up the smooth corner for about 100 feet. Except for the occasional pin scar there is no crack in the corner to help you out. Use the many fixed pitons for pro. Look for the rest on the outside of the corner about sixty feet up the pitch. The crux is when the corner starts arching right. Follow three bolts up to the belay after the corner ends (5.11c).
Pitch three: Climb the easy gully to the right all the way to the top.
Location
To the right of Open book
Protection
Lots of quick draws and small TCU cams. Bring a few larger pieces up to #2 as well.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Aug 17, 2009
To TR this route easily, lead Mechanic's Route (5.8R) and with a single cord you can lower the climber to the base clipping directionals, then belay them up both P1 and P2. Make sure and clip the bolts or risk swinging way around the arete if you "F" the crux. An absolutely amazing climb that I aspire to lead. Interesting moves throughout and the crux isn't too hard in-and-of itself, but coming at the end of the enduro fest is burly. My favorite climb I've (almost) done at Tahquitz.
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