The sustained crux first pitch is a classic steep lieback. Begin by traversing left around a corner from Pine Tree Ledge. A 150 foot long 5.4 second pitch goes up over broken rock, and past (or through!) a pine tree. A short, easy third pitch leads to the top.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 7, 2006 rating: 5.7+
Marvelous dihedral crack on classic Tahquitz granite....!!! Pro #2 Camalots
By David Wang From: San Francisco, CA May 22, 2006 rating: 5.7+
The block/flake at the left end of pine tree ledge is the natural choice for anchor to start piton pooper. However I recall the block/flake was very hollow sounding. The challenge is to prevent rope drag while protecting a possible factor 2 fall. One possible, albeit somewhat unglamourous, solution is to walk a piece up until rope drag is no longer an issue.
Strenuous but very doable at 5.7+ with smart rest stances.
Great route to test yourself on if you want to know how solid you are on 5.7 multi-pitch trad. Very well protected and you will feel like you have climbed a much harder climb. I feel exhilarated every time I have done this.
The layback just above the piton is difficult (5.8) for me, but then again i suck at laybacks. because the layback section is a bit overhung and the feet dissapear, its difficult to climb the upper piton crack as a standard crack climb. otherwise, protection is good everywhere on this route.
RSS Feed
