The Consolation 

This route has some good jamming on it and while nearby Whodunit is swarming with climbers this route often sits vacant. Possible to do in 4 rope-stretching pitches with a 60 meter rope, although this means not using some of the nice belay ledges found on the route.

Continuing straight up on the last pitch, instead of cutting left to join Whodunit (like the guidebook shows), takes you over a strenuous roof (5.10) and ends at a convenient two bolt anchor.

This is as good a climb as Whodunit in almost all respects, especially if you start at the base of the buttress in the middle of the recess and do the first pitch or two of Constellation (5.8 or so)avoiding the first easy scrambling pitches.

The crux is an unusual crack configuration I've never seen anywhere else.

Reading the above comment, I started on Constellation and climbed up the slabby buttress, belaying on a ledge below the slabby face with a solitary bolt. Fun climbing and a nice alternative to the Consolation start.

I decided to give the slab above a shot and ended up taking a 20' winger onto the bolt, blowing off just a move or two from the top. On my second go, I just traversed right to easier ground and then up.

My partner and I felt the left facing corner of the second pitch (5.8 in the guide) felt slightly harder than the twin cracks that are indicated as the crux . The jams were just so good in the twin cracks (reminiscent of "Thumbs Down Left" in JTree) that it just didn't seem that hard.

I agree with Adam, P2 is harder than 5.8, and sustained! P3 crux is an awesome and unusual double crack. Bring your best jam game people, this one's pretty burly. I had a much easier time on Human Fright.

Every year I end-up soloing this route for one reason or another (Partner didn't show up)and every year I find gear left on it.Wires, nuts, cams, you name it.Once I found a whole pitch worth of gear about ten pieces or more all with runners and beaners Just like someone pulled down their rope and left everything.So if going to lead this route and leave all your gear for me.Let me thank you in advance.I do appreciate it. :)

A whole pitch worth of gear? Sounds like an accident. I hope you made an effort to find out what the situation was.

Probably my favorite route on the N/W recess.

This route is great if some one is already on Whodunnit or Long's Crack. Can be done in 5 pitches but I did it in 7 due to rope drag. (added two mini pitches) Great hand jams on this route and when the jams run out there's nice little holds. Defnitely worth doing. Joins up with Whodunnit or Long's Crack.(also, watch out for some loose blocks up there)

Probably my new favourite route on the NW recess. Did in 5 pitches, with comfy belays, and the straight up Long finish (not going right as the guidebook says). I think what is the crux pitch is largely dependent on hand size - but either way never get's harder than 5.9.

We did it by doing the 10b crack/bolted route to the left of wong... nice start to a great climb. I loved the simultaneously left and right facing corner!

Does anyone know what time this route may go into the shade or when the best time to get on it when it's HOT may be?
Thanks

Did this route over the weekend and it was Awesome! Endless fun jamming with a few interesting cruxes.

This can be climbed in three pitches if you are willing to solo the first ~250 feet of 4th class and 5.0 to a good ledge.

From the first ledge next to a tree, with a red rope rap station and below a set of double cracks, go ~62 meters to a wide sloping ledge on the right below a small roof. Belay here.

Next climb ~68 meters past the double crack crux and then trend right to a cool right facing roof feature. Pull this at 5.9 and then belay on a nice ledge. Make sure to manage rope drag since this is a stretcher.

The last pitch is only around 40 meters and I trended right up a hand crack in a flare and then up a chimney with a fun pull on jugs to get on the upper slab.