From Fingertrip, walk around and up about 80 feet. Look for a pine tree with it top missing - that is the base of the climb. 3rd class up to it.
Pitch 1 -(5.10a) Bouldery start just left of a thin, thin crack up to a small overlap move left and up. Belay at a block ledge. Be careful with you anchor here. Pitch 2 - Climb past 2 bolts then make a long friction traverse left past another bolt to the Jungle. Belay here. Pitch 3 *** -(5.10a) Climb up the classic lieback crack for 80 feet. Pro is good, but at the top I would sink a good piece in and go for a small run out. The crack gets thin and less secure. 2 bolt belay. Pitch 4 - Climb the (5.8) crack up and left then travers right to join Jensen's Jaunt.
Or at end of pitch 3 you can mover over and down to get in to Traitor Horn, which makes for a great climb.
By C Miller Administrator Feb 23, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Great climbing and the 3rd pitch lieback is a classic not to be missed.
The name El Camino Real, which translates loosely to the King's Road, refers to the 600 mile road which linked 21 missions from San Diego to Sonoma County.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 12, 2006
Took a fall (story of my life) off the top of P3 and sheared the roll pins off a small TCU.
nice variation for the first pitch is shit for brains
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Mar 12, 2007 rating: 5.10a
One of the cleanest lines I have ever done anywhere(lieback pitch). I highly recommend it. Got confused by the runout beta though, kept looking for the crack to close off when I should have been more focused on my climbing. Save a selection of nuts and small cams (say to ~.5 Camalot) for the top half of the pitch and make your own judgement about protection. It gets steep toward the top so placing gear is more difficult but the crack changes shape enough to take a variety of small gear almost anywhere. I never felt run out but I did feel pumped out.
I accidentally linked P1 & P2, not much of a problem if you don't mind a bit of rope drag during the traverse (5.9?) at the top of P2. Not much pro for the bouldery start, but there is a spot for a margional gear placement at the first rest stance. Also worth noting that above the first bolt on P1 there is a bit of a run out, be a confident .9/.10- slab climber. (mental crux)
I didn't struggle much on P3, move fast and don't fidget with gear. The crux at the top is only a few moves and although the crack thins in spots, there are still plenty of spots to get purchase for the lieback.
We finished on Jenson's Jaunt (5.easy/boring climbing) because there was a line for Traitor Horn. Finish up on the Traitor Horn for one of the best climbing experiences in Tahquitz.
Did this route last thursday. Linked pitch 1 and 2. I didn't place any gear on pitch 1 until I was up the initial slab and around the left side above, otherwise there will be rope drag as the route goes up right and then way left to the jungle.
The crux pitch 3 takes all sorts of pro to 1" or so. You know when you get to the crux at the top. Place gear before the crux and then don't bother with anymore till you do one more move to top out of the crack. I took a #3 camalot and placed it in the wider crack above the lie-back - worked prfect.
We rapped straight back down w/ a 60M. To the jungle and then the bottom.
I recommend doing the the 5.11 just to right - This was a short and fun route w/ a hairy step across to get onto the slab.
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