Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Open Book Area
Show routes:
Select route...
Green Arch 
Mechanic's Route 
Open Book 
Zig Zag 

Mechanic's Route 

5.8 R

   

FA: Dick Jones & Glen Dawson, October 1937
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 250 feet
Views: 1,506 page views

Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 
You and this route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Second pitch, the crux runout section. With posit...


Description 

This shares the first bit of the Open Book and then traverses right to easier ground. The traverse move to gain the right crack is a bit interesting. Then after setting an anchor, the 2nd pitch asends a line of bulges and chickenheads without much gear. The third pitch traverses and ends in a 4th class grove with a fun topout on HUGE holds!


Protection 

Standard rack. Expect a bit of excitment on the second pitch. Walk to the top of Taquitz and go down and right for the walk off.



Photos of Mechanic's Route Slideshow Add Photo
The huge dihedral on the left is Open Book, the right leaning layback crack up above is Zig Zag, the juggy chimney and face is Mechanic's Route, and the right smooth dihedral is The Green Arch.

BETA PHOTO: The huge dihedral on the left is Open Book, the ri...

Kia at the top of the first pitch of Mechanic's Route. Super jugtastic chimney!

Kia at the top of the first pitch of Mechanic's Ro...

Sept 2006. The boulder-y start of Mechanic's/Open book.

Sept 2006. The boulder-y start of Mechanic's/Open ...

Me and Kia on the Mechanics route

Me and Kia on the Mechanics route


Comments on Mechanic's Route Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Mar 12, 2006

Dick Jones' lead of this in tennis shoes and a rope tied round his waist certainly ranks up there.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 8, 2007

The R section of the second pitch really isn't too bad. The holds are so bomb you hardly think about it. It was a blast to lead! Good pro below and above the runout.

I could not find the bolted anchor atop P2 so I just sunk some gear near the end of the crack. From there, my friend Chris led up and left along a crack that joins with P3 of the Open Book.

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Apr 30, 2007

We did this in 2 pitches, with the second pitch being a full 205 feet (i.e. your belayer might want to be prepared to climb around 5 feet).

This was finishing up and left ala Open Book.

With 2 ropes you can rap back down (2 raps), saving yourself the walkoff, and touching you down near your packs.