Pitch 1: Scramble up easy climbing and belay at a bolt anchor (40' left of Paisano Chimney). A short crack leads to 5.10c face climbing that takes you to the black intrusion. A series of difficult reaches presents the crux of the pitch on the intrusion. Above the crux, runout 5.10d climbing takes one into a left leaning arch. A belay may be set up in the arch using a bolt plus gear. Pitch 2: 5.10c climbing follows the arch to it's end, then up the easy face. A variation can also be done to the second pitch: from the belay step down a few moves, then pull over the arch and climb just above the lip of the arch (10d), tending left.
Among the great climbs at Suicide, Valhalla, Insomnia and New Gen, Caliente stands out as way good. A real classic with just enough runout to make you quiver- four big stars.
Sunshine Face Left Side
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