Marc Chrysanthou (Owl and the Cragrat) visits from...
Description
This is a fun, clean crack route that requires more finesse than strength. The delicate crux section, with side pulls and shallow, flared foot jams, is well-protected with fixed pins. An easier finger and hand crack above leads to the belay. There is a second pitch, but most people rappel after pitch 1. This route is located just left of Flower of High Rank.
Protection
small to medium pieces plus quickdraws for the fixed pins
A great route that's more of a face climb at the crux (fixed pins are usually present); once past the crux the crack is no harder than 5.9 and opens up to wide fingers and then hands. The 2nd pitch is good as well, but most rap off (130') after the 1st.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 4, 2006 rating: 5.11a
Outstanding climb that sux up nuts and small cams. Exiting P1, a 5.9+ move with shakey pro is encountered. Top notch.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Feb 24, 2006
A wonderful line. If the pins are good then it's well protected at the crux, although I wouldn't be surprised if the top pin has taken more than its share of shock loading.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 20, 2006 rating: 5.11a
I indeed gave that top pin a load test....
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: Cheyenne,Wyoming Feb 11, 2008 rating: 5.11a
This is defiantly one of my favorite climbs on this side of the valley.A real gem!!
Fixed pins looked good on 10/26, so good that I whipped onto the 3rd one. Technical and a little tenuous, delicate not powerful. A 70m rope will put you about 15' off the ground in 3rd class terrain from top of p1.
Both pitches can be combined into one with a 60m rope. The second pitch has an exciting move or two on so-so rock leading to secure jams, and then it joins the last ten feet of Flower of High Rank.
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