Unknow climber at the business of Flower of Higher...
Description
The classic moderate crack at Suicide. You'll never tire of repeating this gem.
The climb is located where the Northeast Face becomes the North face and is easily identified by the tree (the flower?) growing right in the middle of the crack about 70 feet up. The tree is historically littered with slings to help identify it. The climb is just to the left of a huge (undesirable looking) right facing corner.. and you actually start up this corner to get to the main crack.
I prefer to do this climb in one long pitch, usually scrambling up to the base of the main crack for the first belay (some might want to rope this bit - and you'll need to build an anchor). With a 200' rope you could belay from the ground, but there's enough rope drag already so why add more. You can do the climb in two pitches and belay at the tree, but it is kind of a pain in the butt.
Once climbing you'll enjoy some quality jamming/stemming in the first section heading to the tree. Sustained moves from fingers to off-fingers to thin-hands will get you to the tree and a nice comfy rest. Want a 10a variety... don't use the left wall - my friend accidently did this and bitched his way up....
From the tree there are two cracks, one heading straight up and the other trending out a wild looking face to the right. The right crack has your name on it. Spectacular, exposed climbing up this arching crack leads to the route's final crux at the roof. The roof goes at 5.9, but take your time to figure it out... many a flailing here.
Some 5.7 jamming finishes the journey.
What a climb!
Protection
Standard rack including nuts, and 2x each cam from small ones to a #3
(I did this from five year old memory, so feel free to add more specific gear requirements)
By C Miller Administrator Jan 27, 2006 rating: 5.9
An area classic that goes at an easier grade than appearances might suggest. Easily done with a 60 meter rope, as mentioned, by starting at the top of the ramp crack. Both variations on the 2nd pitch are good but the one on the right is the one you'll remember. Expect to take a number on a crowded weekend.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 4, 2006 rating: 5.9
D. Haugelstine trying to get us to solo this route before we led it had us psyched! Grade A++ route
By Obi From: San Diego, CA Feb 22, 2006 rating: 5.9+
Take the right crack for sure after the tree. I took the left crack when I lead this and now I feel like I've been robbed of a great experience. Regardless, this is one of my favorites at Suicide.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 19, 2006 rating: 5.9
Good rope management is required at the roof; be careful not to get it jammed. I've seen more than one team do this.
By Floridaputz From: Oakland Park, Florida Aug 21, 2006
I want to go right next time. The tree belay is a little uncomfortable. Great way to finish off the day.
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes Jul 1, 2007 rating: 5.9
Great climb. This can be done in one pitch from the bottom with a 60m rope, but the belay at the top of the ramp crack is shaded from the sun, and makes rope management easier, so is probably the better option.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh From: Cheyenne,Wyoming Feb 11, 2008 rating: 5.9
I'm with the others do the right crack a bit harder if I remember but a better finish.
I stumbled across this classic the first time there. Had no idea what it was until my partner Wendell said it's THE CLASSIC of Suicide Rock. At that point I could not wait to get on it. Great climbing with a technical start and fantasically exposed finish. After hanging from the top crack I realized it's best to climb above the crack until about half way at which point you can actually crack climb the thing. Pull the roof and your home free. Don't rob yourself by taking the right crack. Go right you'll thank yourself later. A great experience to have!!!!:) I give it four stars.
By Robin like the bird From: mountain center ,CA Sep 7, 2009 rating: 5.9 PG13
just climb this route and it was great, but you don't need me to tell you this. I bet I bet I Hung out under the roof for about 10 minutes, before committing to the move. It was almost like cocaine, once I was done climbing I wanted to do it again.
I am blown away by the picture of Clark Jacobs free soloing this in the guide book.
Anybody else get sapped in the left crack right underneath the tree. I wonder if it made me stick better?
By Dynomight510 From: San Diego Sep 11, 2009 rating: 5.9
I have to disagree with the PG-13 rating. This is a well protectable climb. I've done it many times and the pro opportunities are adequate or better. The climb is sustained in some sections but there are rests where you need them.
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