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Buttress of Cracks

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Double Exposure Direct 
East Buttress Gully 
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Ham Sandwich 
Hernia, The 
Insomnia 
Low Pressure 
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Pirate, The 
Plague, The 
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Winter Solstice 

Buttress of Cracks

Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 20, 2006
Administrator: C Miller
Views: 16,670 page views

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Description 

The Buttress Of Cracks is, as the name implies, a good spot for crack climbing but there's some good face climbs to be done here as well. The longest climbs here are two pitches with most being long, single pitch affairs. Descents vary from walk offs to rappels depending upon the climb.

Crack climbers will enjoy The Hernia (5.8), Sword Of Damocles (5.9), Frustration (5.10a), Insomnia (5.11b/c) and The Pirate (5.12d). Face climbers will want to try out Double Exposure (5.10b A1 or 5.12a R), Arcy Farcy (5.10d), Winter Solstice (5.11c) and Blade Runner (5.12b).


Getting There 

The approach trail will end near the right side of the Buttress Of Cracks. To access the left-hand portion walk left following a good trail along the base of the wall. Continuing just past this wall you will reach the Sunshine Face and Smooth Sole Walls.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttress of Cracks:
The Hernia   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Arcy Farcy   5.10c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Insomnia   5.11b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Winter Solstice   5.11c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
The Pirate   5.12d     Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet   
Browse More Classics in Buttress of Cracks

Featured Route For Buttress of Cracks
Todd smith SENDS!

Insomnia 5.11b  CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Buttress of Cracks
This classic crack is found on the left end of the Buttress Of Cracks, just left of the Double Exposure arete and facing towards the Sunshine Face.Climb 25' up Buttress Chimney, the wide crack between the Sunshine Face & Buttress Of Cracks, and then enter a flared chimney (5.9) below a striking crack. Wiggle up the chimney and then launch directly into the crux, which can be jammed straight on or liebacked depending upon your hand size or prefere...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA