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DescriptionTahquitz and Suicide Rocks are the premiere multi-pitch traditional crags in Southern California and offer numerous climbs of all levels from one to seven pitches in length. Getting ThereFrom LA or Palm springs via Interstate 10 take Highway 243 from the town of Banning 24 miles south to the town of Idyllwild. After a stop sign (your first since leaving Banning) make a left onto North Circle Drive, the second left, and follow it to another stop sign. Make a right and then your first left onto Fern Valley Drive and follow the signs to Humber Park. Weather
GuidebookRock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks (3rd edition) by Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines is the most current/up-to-date guide available to the area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks:
Angel's Fright 5.5 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
Fingertrip 5.7 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side
Coffin Nail 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side
Traitor Horn 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side
Mechanic's Route 5.8 R Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet South Face : Open Book Area
The Consolation 5.9 Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess
Flower of High Rank 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes
Open Book 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 490 feet South Face : Open Book Area
Whodunit 5.9 Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess
El Camino Real 5.10a Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet West Face : West Face - Right Side
Super Pooper 5.10a/b Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Sundance 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Fred 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst...
The Vampire 5.11a Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes
Iron Cross 5.11a Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Etude 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes
Valhalla 5.11a Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side
Insomnia 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks
New Generation 5.11c Trad, 3 pitches, 280 feet Suicide Rock : Sunshine Face - Right Side
The Pirate 5.12d Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks
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Featured Route For Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
Green Arch 5.11c CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : ... : Open Book Area
The Green Arch is one of Tahquiz's greatest climbs. It follows a striking corner to the right of the Open Book (5.9). An amazing climb you don’t want to miss. And yes, it's sandbagged.Pitch one: Start about 100 feet below were the arch begins and climb past a few pitons and one bolt to a small ledge where the arch begins (5.10+).Pitch two: The crux. Stem your way up the smooth corner for about 100 feet. Except for the occasional pin scar ther...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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