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Candyland 

5.10c

   

FA: Eric Barrett, John Bowlin, R. Orevitz, 1977.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Views: 821 page views

Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 18, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Candyland heads straight up the face. The rope see...


Description 

This climbs an overhanging knobby wall, with a thin crack at the top.
This climb faces west.


Protection 

Thin, slings to tie off knobs.



Photos of Candyland Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out and the crux begins on Candyland.

Kevin Chapin gets perplexed as the knobs run out a...

The lower crux is standing up and reaching the next huge knob.

The lower crux is standing up and reaching the nex...


Comments on Candyland Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 18, 2006

This is a memorable route, I remember knobs as big as fire hydrants. You can mantle up one and then sit on it! A wild one.

By Guy Humphrey
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007

The wildest climb on the Middle Spire. Make sure you have 4 3-4 ft slings ready to tie off the bowling ball sized knobs. An unforgettable climb...

A #2 camalot could be placed after the 30ft 5.4 runout. The largest piece that you will place on the upper section is a green alien. The thin crack is the perfect size for a couple #3 ballnuts.

By PumpkinEater
Jun 24, 2009

This route gave me that "Holy @#$%!" feeling I only get on truly great routes. Five stars!

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Aug 24, 2009

classic! Big reaches between giant muffin-tops. Don't pay any attention to Supertopo gear beta. Bring a few finger and smaller-than-finger sized cams and SMALL nuts for the horizontal cracks above the knobs and for the vertical crack, also bring one #1 for the bigger crack at the top.

Crux is moving into the vertical crack at the top of the route. Don't be fooled by the crack though, the climbing is mostly face climbing with a small nut sized crack for pro.