Although actually a series of rocks, they're all pretty similiar in character and just easier to describe as one - so here we go:
Luther Spires are a series of granite spires with easy to moderate climbs established and many more waiting for power-drill-based-attention.
Luther Spires is newly developed and as such, there is still a lot of rock that can break off, but the granite seems pretty sturdy beneath.
Getting There
Upon entering Christmas Valley on Highway 89 from 50, drive a few miles until the road begins to curve as it approaches Luther Pass. There will be a sign to the Big Meadow Trailhead and from there, the turnout is about .45 miles on the left side of the road.
You will know you're in the right spot if you find the large boulder lining the pullout with a hole drilled in it the perfect diameter for a beer bottle.
Out from the parking lot, you'll find a clearing with the trail heading through it.
Follow this trail across a better established trail and follow it as it hops on a large downed tree to cross a stream. Upon crossing the stream, the trail traverses up the hillside for about 10 minutes until you find yourself directly beneath the spires. Then the trail get steep until you find yourself at the base of two spires. Jackass is the intimidating bolted route on the left spire and Just Jerry is to the right.
Widow Maker is claimed to be one of the best face climbs at Luther Spires and it certainly is a challenging and fun route! This is one of the two furthest left and furthest up routes in the Supertopo South Lake Tahoe Climbing guide book by Chris McNamara. There are two ways to get to the route. Once you arrive at the Spires from the approach path, walk left. After only 30-40 feet the path either leads up along the spires or down to underneath...[more]
Directions are right on! Just want to add a couple comments.... After driving passed the Big Meadow Trailhead signs, the small parking area on the left approaches very fast. The boulder with the beer bottle size hole in it is the key landmark. As a matter of fact there are several boulders with drilled holes in them. After walking through clearing the path will come upon and cross the Rim Trail path. Continue along and you will find the tip of a large fallen dead tree crossing the path. For fun, jump on it and head downhill along the tree trunk and across the stream. Chris McNamara's guidebook South Lake Tahoe Climbing says that the approach is 20-30 minutes with a few hundred feet elevation gain. We made the approach in 30 minutes but the elevation gain seemed more like 600-700' and it nearly killed us all! Now I must admit our packs were heavy. My pack was loaded with the following... 60m rope, 12 quickdraws, standard fairly complete rack, good set of slings and locking biners, helmet, shoes, harness, guidebook, 2 liters of water, some food, and convinced that Bud Lite would save some weight, a six pack and 5 lbs of ice. I know I know, what was I thinking... Next time I will spend more time properly planning and packing only what I would definitely need. I have to concentrate and focus on why and what is the main purpose of the trip...
Definitely have to cut down on the gear! : )
The good news is that at the end of the day, the walk out is downhill, mostly in the shade, and is beautiful and my pack was MUCH lighter!
I thought the elevation gain for the approach was closer to 800 feet, anyway it is not the 200 hundred feet mentioned in the guidebook.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Mar 19, 2008
I found the climbing here generally uninspiring. There are a lot of easy to moderate sport routes so there is that attraction, but if you're looking for much higher quality sport climbing in SLT I would recommend the nearby Luther Rock (sucky approach but morning shade) or Mayhem Cove (2 minute approach, afternoon shade.)
You know, Jay Smith did routes here in the 1970s. I would always look up there thinking it would be cool to check out, but f%#k that approach! Going up to Luther Rock for lame routes was bad enough!
Yea, that Jay Smith got to alot of my lines down in Red Rocks too. I recently heard from a climber that Jay had the luxury of a trust fund and so wasn't constrained by that typical burden. Don't know if that is true or not but it could explain some of his productivity.
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