East Corner 

This really is a fine route and worth doing, even if you have to aid the crux. The corner leading up to the roof is fun and sustained slick corner work around .9 or .10a.

The first pitch is worth doing as well, I thought it was pretty interesting, and a challenging .9.

also, I'd supplement that gear rack with more small stuff. Double blue and green aliens would be really nice to have.

A beautiful line. The supertopo guide lists microbrew as a thin crack traversing in from the right.

For the first pitch I did a mediocre 5.7 directly up to the ledge between microbrew and Haystack. It was ok but dirty in a few places. Also the pro got sparce just below the ledge so I did a little traverse out right on the face and then back to the ledge.

The 2nd pitch corner felt harder than the .10a that everyone is talking about to me but the roof felt more .11a like. Make what you will of that. I agree with caughtinside about the small gear and would even recommend triples in the green and yellow aliens. I usuallly scoff when a route says doubles on nuts but I used up every single one of mine on this beautiful pitch.

I also belayed about 10ft up from the old 1/4inch bolts on small hand size pieces and could see the follower alot better.

Hey Karsten, that corner leading up to the roof is thin, polished and pretty insecure feeling, I wouldn't argue with someone who said it was .10a+. heh. Especially if the grass is thick in the crack. I think I had the first ascent of the season in 07, and trying to rand smear in the corner, crushing grass and getting the rubber wet makes it tougher!

Old 1/4" bolts? I don't remember them being bad. YOu're talking about the double bolt station shared with pop bottle, up the corner and just left?

I could have swore they were 1/4 inch but then again I was a little spent and the wind was really kicken up that day at the top. Plus aren't 1/4 inch bolts all bomber??? ;}

Rules of thumb:

1/4": bad. 3/8": good. 1/2": excellent. 5/8": sandstone (and still crossing fingers!) or used to hold buildings to their foundations in earthquake retrofits.

1/4" bolts are not a standard anymore, they're usually somewhat rusted out at this point, and look like they're a little bent.

Do you know if the anchor bolts atop p2 of this climb are 1/4" or are you just speaking generally?

If they are indeed 1/4", I will try to pull and replace them with modern hardware this summer.

Was responding in general terms, and hopefully to dispel the question of whether or not 1/4" bolts are bomber (NO!). I have no idea if the bolts on the top of p2 are 1/4". It might be worth looking into. Anyone else know?

Heard from someone who did this route 5/31/08. The belay consisted of 2 good 3/8" bolts and one 1/4"er, so it sounds like it is in good shape.

Climbed this route last month, the belay has 2 solid 3/8" and a lone 1/4", which looks pretty solid...it holds, so that has to count for something...