Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
Errett Allen on "Corragation Corner". Photo by Bli...
Description
A varied four-pitch climb that goes to the highest point on the Leap. Follows the huge right facing corner just to the right of Traveler's Buttress. First pitch is in the corner. The second pitch sneaks out on the left face leading to the base of a chimney. The third pitch climbs the chimney, traverses 5.7 past a fixed piton, and then hops on a beautiful exposed arete. The fourth pitch is basic and can be avoided with a 60m rope.
This very popular (deservedly so!) route often has a line on a weekend.
I'd suggest if you're heading up to main ledge to do corrugation that you have some kind of backup plan, or something to do while you're waiting in line. I'd recommend: arctic breeze--single pitch .10a, all bolted absolutely billy--single pitch .10a, mostly bolted plus 3 cams 1st pitch north face-- 1 pitch of 5.7, all gear. Power lust-- .11a single pitch sport climb. well bolted.
I just see lots of people waiting at the base for hours, when they're surrounded by great rock!
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Nov 29, 2007
100% worthwhile. Fun, long, not too scary, beautiful location.
I did this in 3 pitches with a 60m. The arete on the 2nd pitch seemed to be the crux for me. Not unreasonably hard, but exposed and true climbing.
Don't miss the fixed pin before beaching yourself on the ledge for the second belay of you'll be looking at a run out fall on a small nut while trying to shamu your way up some greasy grovelly mantel. When the guy on the ledge pointed out the pin to me after the move, I was annoyed.
Anyway, good pro and exciting climbing make this really awesome.
I havent done many climbs at Lover's Leap, but this was definetely my favorite! There is a great variety of moves and rock type, coupled with fun exposure. We were not even that early (maybe 8) in mid august, and had no wait, and finished the climb well within the time when it is still cool and comfortable. Dont let posts about crowds stop you from this great climb.
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