Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
A good pitch to run laps on, when there are no cro...
Description
This is a great starting pitch to Surrealistic Pillar. It can be easily TR'ed after leading the first 5.7 pitch to the right.
Follow a right-facing dihedral with a large hand crack. A combination of stemming and jamming will lead to the crux. There are a couple fixed pins near the crux.
A really fun alternative is to combine the starting crack of the 10a variation to SP and then traverse on a dike just below the (10d?) roof of the variation. Good pro (blue Camalot - extend!) before making the traverse and good pro after before committing to the strenuous crux moves going through the roof. Beats the run-out 5.6 or so knob slinging of the 10d variation (in my book) and the traverse is really straightforward for those around 6' tall. Despite not being one of the 3 versions - I think this is the most obvious line of all.
What 10d roof? There is no way any of those variations (including yours) is any bit harder than 10b. You're right though, the way you explain it is the most obvious line. However, it is one of the three variations (of four) that most people do. In fact, it's the variation most people do when they lead the direct....because it's got the best pro.
this is a fabulous crack pitch, a rarity at the leap! fun stemming start, thin traverse, roof pull to overhanging pumpy hands, what more can you ask for? If you like the hands section, do the first part of the sinbad herbert next.
By tallmark515 From: San Francisco Jun 28, 2009 rating: 5.10b
Fun stemming and crack climbing at the bottom, tricky and steep off fingers crux to steep tight-hands crack.
Watch the rope drag when doing the traverse, extend your pieces.
Entering into the steep crack is definitely, no harder than .10b though. The rest of the crack above is probably .10a.
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