Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
This is one of the classic 5.7 climbs at the Leap that should not be missed.
P1: Start in a short RF dihedral for 20ft, run it out to the left until you hit a lieback flake. Continue upwards into a LF flake system, which will take some larger gear.
P2: The "reach" pitch. Follow fun cracks and face holds to the large reach. Continue up on solid 5.6 overlaps to a good ledge.
P3: Follow a right leaning crack system with a roof to the top.
By Floridaputz From: Oakland Park, Florida Apr 18, 2006
One of the funnest 5.7's in you will ever do. It's a classic. Great potection. I didn't have much trouble on the "reach". My wife 5.2' did not have trouble either.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Sep 1, 2006
Not to be missed!!! You are cheating yourself if you go through Tahoe without stopping to do this. Also, check corrugation corner if bears reach has a line; IMHO more intimidating, but very reasonable.
Dan's video is what got me into climbing and getting to do this climb was very exciting for me.
This climbing feels like a 5.7 and gear is good even for chickens like me.
The reach on P2 isn't so bad, but I was worried while climbing the flakes. They provide a definite lack of security and make this climb a bit heady. Even so, it's jugs nearly all the way up. The 5.9 beached whale finish is a worthy last move at the very top.
By Tom Johnson From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe Aug 5, 2008
Super fun route. Would have to disagree with Floridaputz about the reach. I'm 5'8" and I struggled to get it! Still doable, but it takes a bit more creativity to stand up high enough. And if you're used to sandstone, tapping on all those hollow flakes will scare the crap out of you.
I'm 5'6" and have a negative ape index; I didn't feel the reach was that bad. In fact, I wasn't even sure I had climbed the "reachy" part until I was done with the pitch.
One night at the LL campground a friend and I ran into some excited climbers just in from the UK, setting up camp and talking about the next day's prospects. "What are you going to climb?" my friend asked them. "We're planning on Bear's Reach!" one said. The other interjected "The best 5.7 in the world!" Inspired, my buddy came back almost immediately with, "Best 5.7 in the world? Bear's Reach isn't even the best 5.7 at this crag!"
Eternally long lines and what I was sure was an overhyped status kept me away from this crowded classic until recently. Now that I've climbed it, it's true that isn't the best 5.7 at the crag (that has to be Corrugation Corner), but it really is a fun line. I'd also say the crux and perhaps real reach on this climb is on the first pitch. There's that slightly polished, slightly burly lieback near the bottom. Although I could spot the "reach" on the 2nd pitch Ive had several shorter friends (including a 5' 3" person) tell me it's not a thing.
Great route! The reach is fun with plenty of good feet is you are not as lanky as someone like me. The 5.9 move at the top is definetely worth it, though it felt a little more than a 5.9 after waiting at the 2nd belay for 45 minutes for a group from east face to finish up. Its worth bringing 2 sets of cams, I had to run things out a little more than I would have liked.
Not worth the hype. The climbing was unremarkable and the high number of rotten flakes meant that I trusted only about 3 pieces of pro per pitch. I was comfortable on the climb, but the poor rock condition greatly diminished any "classic" value this has. Many better climbs on the East Wall.