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Bear's Reach 

5.7

   

FA: Berry and Linnett, 1956
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 400 feet
Views: 3,734 page views

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Feb 18, 2006


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The runout section on the first pitch...


Description 

This is one of the classic 5.7 climbs at the Leap that should not be missed.

P1: Start in a short RF dihedral for 20ft, run it out to the left until you hit a lieback flake. Continue upwards into a LF flake system, which will take some larger gear.

P2: The "reach" pitch. Follow fun cracks and face holds to the large reach. Continue up on solid 5.6 overlaps to a good ledge.

P3: Follow a right leaning crack system with a roof to the top.


Protection 

gear to 3.5"



Photos of Bear's Reach Slideshow Add Photo
Jim Bridwell on "Bear's Reach".<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Jim Bridwell on "Bear's Reach".
Photo by Blitzo.


Charleen on "Bear's Reach", first pitch.<br />Photo by Bill Serniuk.

Charleen on "Bear's Reach", first pitch.
Photo by ...


Brett making his way up the flake section  on the first pitch of Bear's reach

BETA PHOTO: Brett making his way up the flake section on the ...

Jason just after the "Bear's Reach" move and heading up the stellar second pitch of the Bear's reach

BETA PHOTO: Jason just after the "Bear's Reach" move and headi...

Anne starting up the 2nd pitch

BETA PHOTO: Anne starting up the 2nd pitch

The 2nd pitch of Bear's reach

BETA PHOTO: The 2nd pitch of Bear's reach

just below the bear's reach move

just below the bear's reach move

Bear's Reach.

Bear's Reach.

Dana starts up the Bear's Reach.

Dana starts up the Bear's Reach.

Dana a bit higher on P1 of Bear's Reach.

Dana a bit higher on P1 of Bear's Reach.

Be forewarned, 3 popular routes converge at this belay ledge.

Be forewarned, 3 popular routes converge at this b...

Bear's Reach.  I've only climbed it once, so let me know if I made any mistakes.  You can see the two belays with two people on each.  Fun route, but super crowded on a summer weekend.

BETA PHOTO: Bear's Reach. I've only climbed it once, so let m...

The direct finish.

The direct finish.

heading up the first pitch

heading up the first pitch

Looking down the steep and dreamy 2nd pitch

Looking down the steep and dreamy 2nd pitch

All smiles on the first pitch.

All smiles on the first pitch.

Reaching on Bear's Reach.

Reaching on Bear's Reach.

Second pitch above the "reach".

Second pitch above the "reach".


Comments on Bear's Reach Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 16, 2009
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Apr 18, 2006

One of the funnest 5.7's in you will ever do. It's a classic. Great potection. I didn't have much trouble on the "reach". My wife 5.2' did not have trouble either.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 1, 2006

Watch in disbelief as the late Dan Osman free solos the 400' route

!).

By Evan1984
Mar 6, 2008

Not to be missed!!! You are cheating yourself if you go through Tahoe without stopping to do this. Also, check corrugation corner if bears reach has a line; IMHO more intimidating, but very reasonable.

Dan's video is what got me into climbing and getting to do this climb was very exciting for me.

This climbing feels like a 5.7 and gear is good even for chickens like me.

By GMBurns
From: Boston, MA
Jul 21, 2008

The reach on P2 isn't so bad, but I was worried while climbing the flakes. They provide a definite lack of security and make this climb a bit heady. Even so, it's jugs nearly all the way up. The 5.9 beached whale finish is a worthy last move at the very top.

By Tom Johnson
From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe
Aug 5, 2008

Super fun route. Would have to disagree with Floridaputz about the reach. I'm 5'8" and I struggled to get it! Still doable, but it takes a bit more creativity to stand up high enough. And if you're used to sandstone, tapping on all those hollow flakes will scare the crap out of you.

By Bruce Willey
From: Big Pine, CA
Aug 24, 2008

The .9 finish is not to be missed. With all that liebacking below, it adds something really special to the end.

By bob branscomb
From: Lander, WY
Apr 1, 2009

Where else but Lover's Leap can you be on a 5.7 and look straight to the deck for 300 feet between your heels? Great route.

By Aerili
From: Reno, NV
May 23, 2009

I'm 5'6" and have a negative ape index; I didn't feel the reach was that bad. In fact, I wasn't even sure I had climbed the "reachy" part until I was done with the pitch.

By Zeke
From: Phoenix
Jul 7, 2009

One night at the LL campground a friend and I ran into some excited climbers just in from the UK, setting up camp and talking about the next day's prospects. "What are you going to climb?" my friend asked them. "We're planning on Bear's Reach!" one said. The other interjected "The best 5.7 in the world!" Inspired, my buddy came back almost immediately with, "Best 5.7 in the world? Bear's Reach isn't even the best 5.7 at this crag!"

Eternally long lines and what I was sure was an overhyped status kept me away from this crowded classic until recently. Now that I've climbed it, it's true that isn't the best 5.7 at the crag (that has to be Corrugation Corner), but it really is a fun line. I'd also say the crux and perhaps real reach on this climb is on the first pitch. There's that slightly polished, slightly burly lieback near the bottom. Although I could spot the "reach" on the 2nd pitch Ive had several shorter friends (including a 5' 3" person) tell me it's not a thing.

By Wesley Ashwood
Jul 20, 2009

Great route! The reach is fun with plenty of good feet is you are not as lanky as someone like me. The 5.9 move at the top is definetely worth it, though it felt a little more than a 5.9 after waiting at the 2nd belay for 45 minutes for a group from east face to finish up. Its worth bringing 2 sets of cams, I had to run things out a little more than I would have liked.

By Tim Camuti
Aug 16, 2009

Not worth the hype.
The climbing was unremarkable and the high number of rotten flakes meant that I trusted only about 3 pieces of pro per pitch. I was comfortable on the climb, but the poor rock condition greatly diminished any "classic" value this has. Many better climbs on the East Wall.