Peregrine Falcons are nesting again at Lover's Leap. Please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting in mid-April and ending in September. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District 530-547-5317.
Here's a map:
2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
BETA PHOTO: A view of surrealistic pillar from the distance. ...
Description
This excellent route ascends the entire length of the Lower Buttress, bringing you up out of the giant forest below and high enough so you think you're way the hell up. Then you top out, and realize that the main wall of Lover's Leap hovers over you, and that you're a mere peon in between the giant walls of horizontal dykes.
For a 5.7, this has an excellent variety of terrian for only 3 pitches.
Accessing the route is easy: Walking up to the Lower Buttress, walk right until you find the first set of bolts. Then walk a little more to the second set of bolts, which is Pillar of Society (.12a). The next crack is the Direct Start of Surrealistic Pillar (.10a), and finally you'll be on a tier with a flat face and a couple of large horns about 15 - 20 feet off the ground. You're here.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the horns, and continue up and left to a well protected crack system to a wide (4") left facing crack.
Pitch 2: Follow this crack up for about 4 dykes, where you need to cross to a large horn. Follow this around the arete, where you can belay from a ledge.
Pitch 3: Simple. Go up the face with large jugs and belay from something suitable up top.
Protection
A full rack, and slings. A 4" or greater piece will make the first belay more comfortable. Slings of a wide variety are also always useful at the Leap.
Much better to do this one in 2 pitches, no problem with a 60m rope. Belay at a good stance just above the wide crack. Then, up 25', make the traverse, and up until you top out.
By Will12 From: Fort Collins May 18, 2008 rating: 5.7
The occasional striaght in jam is very useful on this route. Awesome route with steep rock and big holds. Do corrugation after for an awesome day.
By Tom Johnson From: Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe Aug 6, 2008 rating: 5.7
I agree that this route could/should be done in two pitches. It is straight enough that rope drag isn't much of an issue. It is a bit intimidating for a new 5.7 trad leader!
By grizz From: Eureka, CA Sep 18, 2008 rating: 5.7+
I found the start to be a little bouldery. Some of the traverses get you pretty far from your gear so it could be a little intimidating for a new leader. It seems to do it in two pitches would make communication difficult. The third pitch is like a solo, very little if any gear, easy climbing on big rails though.
The first pitch is really beautiful. However, the wide crack you encounter at the end of p1 doesn't take a #4 Cam; it is way too wide. A #5 Camalot should fit, although I didn't have one. The crack appeared it would take the #4 a lot higher up, but the route doesn't continue up that way, I believe, unless you do the 5.8 variation, so carrying a 4 was just dead weight for me.
If you are solid at the grade, you can put in a couple so-so tiny cams on the face opposite the wide crack until you get to a big pin about 20-30 feet up and can clip it. However, the pin was definitely put in by a tall climber; there is a big ledge to stand on under it, but I couldn't reach it from this secure stance, so I had to plug a tiny Alien in a questionable flaring pod, make the move, and then clip the pin. If you are breaking into 5.7 leading, I would just bring a #5 and use it in the wide crack instead so you will have no worries.
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