Mountain Project: Climbing Tahoe Vicinity

Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Aug 4, 2005
Administrator: Aron Quiter
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Description

Black Wall is the largest rock formation in the Donner Summit area. The large east facing wall is the first rock formation you encounter on the right as you drive up from Donner Lake. Many routes are 3 or 4 pitches in length to a height of 400-600 feet. Although most of the routes are trad requiring a good solid standard rack, there does exist some sport routes also. To descend, walk off the left side (west) and follow trail down and eventually cut back left over a ridge to gain access to bottom of cliffs.

Getting There

Driving up from Donner Lake, Black Wall is the first rock formation you come to on the right side sitting high above the road. If you are driving from the west, you would exit at the Soda Springs/Donner Pass Road exit off of I-80. Continue on Donner Pass Road east for several miles to reach to the Donner Summit area. You will pass many climbing formations as you drive down the hill. Black Wall will be the very last one on the left side. There is a small parking pull off area. There are two ways to approach the cliffs. For climbs on the left side, follow a small trail that begins up a little from the parking area. The trail meanders up and eventually you just climb boulder to boulder to get through the boulder field heading straight up to the cliffs. To gain the right side, it is easier to follow a small trail just left of a small creek. Follow trail and creek bed to a point where the trail turns left to the base of the wall. Approach is about 10-15 minutes if you are acclimated to the higher 7000' altitude. If you are arriving from the Bay area, expect the approach to be a little tiring! Beautiful rock in a beautiful setting!

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Wall:

One Hand Clapping 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet

Black September 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Firecracker 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Featured Route For Black Wall

Photo shows belays with the optional belay near the end of pitch two. You could belay here anyways and still climb up and left to Lizard Ledge on easier ground.

One Hand Clapping 5.9 CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Black Wall

One Hand Clapping starts on a ledge on the main Black Wall face below an obvious tall, twin crack system slanting right. Climb the twin cracks requiring good hand jamming techniques (5.8) and continue up to a belay with bolted anchors. Climb the steep, thin crack above to a slab. Continue up and left (a little runout here) and continue up and left through a steep, weird, intimidating, slanting left flaring corner. Getting around the end of th...[more] Browse More Classics in CA

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