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DescriptionDonner Pass is located just south of 80 east of Truckee. The climbing is on granite rocks ranging from small to hundreds of feet. Both cracks and sport climbs co-exist here, and there are some kick-ass climbs of both sorts.Camping near the climbing is illegal, but doesn't seem to be too severely enforced. If that troubles you, there's camping on the opposite side of Donner Lake, or plenty of hotel-type accomadations in nearby Truckee, which also is an ample source of food and entertainment.The Donner Pass climbing season is from ~mid-April until whenever snow closes the road in November or December. Donner's 7000' elevation means that even during beautiful summer days a surprise storm is possible, so be prepared. Getting ThereFrom the Bay Area, take 80 East, through Sacramento. Continue uphill until the Soda Springs exit. Follow Donner Pass Road through Soda Springs and past the ski area exits until you find yourself travelling down a steep and windy road with large rocks on both sides. The first rock you'll come across is Baboon Crag then School Rock, both on your left. Total drive time is highly dependent on traffic and your willingness to speed, but it can be done in just over two hours if you're foot is heavy... The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donner Pass:
Insidious Crack 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Grouse Slab
Composure 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet Snowshed Wall
Jellyroll Arch 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Grouse Slab
Hair Shirt 5.8+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Snowshed Wall
One Hand Clapping 5.9 Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet Black Wall
Nova Express 5.9 Trad Snowshed Wall
Greener Pastures 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet Grouse Slab
Black September 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Black Wall
Bottomless Topless 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Snowshed Wall
Firecracker 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Black Wall
Jam Session 5.10b Trad, 70 feet Snowshed Wall
Molar Concentration 5.10b Trad, 60 feet Snowshed Wall
Farewell to Arms 5.10b Trad Snowshed Wall
Sanitation Crack 5.10b/c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Snowshed Wall
Karl's Gym 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet Snowshed Wall
Peter Principle 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Snowshed Wall
Goldielocks 5.10d Sport, TR Goldilocks Wall
Ariel 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Snowshed Wall
Disciples Of the New Wave 5.11b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Snowshed Wall
Monkey Paws 5.12a Trad, TR, 70 feet Snowshed Wall
Featured Route For Donner Pass
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