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Whitney Portal Buttress
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Gangway 
Ghostrider 
Mean Streak 
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Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") 

Gangway 

5.12a

   

FA: Peter Croft
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Season: March - October
Views: 506 page views

Submitted By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 7, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Gangway (5.12a or 5.11A A0)


Description 

Gangway is a new route on the buttress established by Peter Croft with some help from Marty Lewis. I haven't climbed the route but since Marty e-mailed me this beta I thought I would share it with every one.

The first pitch is, according to Marty, the best start option for Ghostrider. 4 new bolts and a little bit of gear. Wandering face on good rock to a ledge with a belay.

Not shown on the topo is the fourth pitch, which has bolts and gear to a two bolt anchor.

  • Also goes at 5.11a AO if not up to freeing the 2nd pitch.


Location 

To the right of Satoris.


Protection 

Draws, standard rack



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By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 22, 2009

goes at .12a (semi-sandbagged in my opinion, i feel like a small foothold might have broken?) If you look on the drawn topo you can see an arcing crack that ends at a two bolt anchor (the next route to the right of Ghostrider.) It now has bolts that extend the route up the slab to an anchor. This is a good option to start either Gangway or Ghostrider. Goes at .10b.

By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 22, 2009

oh yea, forgot to add that Gangway is the sicky sickness. I did it twice in two weeks and my partner kept wanting to be lowered from the belay above the corner to do TR laps on it!

By Darrell Hensel
Jun 24, 2009

I believe the curving crack mentioned (as a start to either Ghostrider or Gangway) is Tanager. Previously it ended at the double bolts (as drawn), but now goes to the ledge.