BETA PHOTO: Orange Pillar. Boi-oi-oi-ing is the main crack spl...
Description
P1 (5.10a): Climbs up the right side of a giant wedged block about 25 feet off the ground. Continue up double cracks to the highest ledge before the upper headwall. Bolted anchor at 85 feet.
P2 (5.10a): Start out slightly up and left of the anchor and get ready for 165 feet of hand jamming! Generally there are two or three cracks to choose from. When in doubt, stay to the left. Bolted anchor.
P3 (5.9): Not recommended due to loose rock and friable holds. If you do climb this, we left some fixed junk to rap from, beware.
Location
On the orange tower that faces east. This climb actually has somewhat of a southerly aspect. To get down with one rope, do a short rappel off the right side of the wall (East) from the top of pitch 2. This brings you to the anchor for "Do I Make You Horny?", then do another 100 foot rappel to get back to the first pitch anchor.
Protection
Doubles in cams from fingers to fist. Some may want a couple extra hand or thin hand sized pieces.
Completely agree about the last pitch. We did it anyway. Left some stoppers to rap from in '05. Just to back up a hex that had some questionable webbing. I'll post a pic of the last pitch.
Fantastic climb! When rapping down from the top of pitch two, go straight down the face that the bolts are on (not down the climb itself--even with a 70m you won't make it to the P1 belay) to find rap anchors.
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