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Buttermilks Main

Submitted By: Adam Winters on Mar 31, 2008
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters
Elevation: 6,400 feet
Views: 34,194 page views

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Buttermilks Main




Description 

The famed Buttermilks Main hillside- one of the premier bouldering destinations in the country, if not the world.

This is the main bouldering area in the Buttermilks, offering the highest concentration of boulders in the area along with a very short approach. Climbers flock from all over the world to test themselves on this hillside. If you're new to the area definitely go here first. The landings are flat and sandy, and the setting is breathtaking.

The area's approximate boundaries lie from the 'Stained Glass/Flyboy Area' on the west end of the hillside, and across the hillside eastwards to the giant 'Peabody Boulders'.

Featured here are hundreds of great boulder problems and classics such as 'The Mandala', 'Evilution', 'High Plains Drifter', and the ever-popular 'Iron Man Traverse'.


Getting There 

Approximately 3.5 miles down Buttermilk Road. The boulders will be on your right, clearly visible and obvious from the road. These boulders can be accessed either by the parallel-style Peabody Parking Area, or the parking loop at the Birthday Parking Area, farther up the road, off a right-hand side road.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Buttermilks Main:
Hero Roof   V0     Boulder, 12 feet   Iron Man Area
Buttermilk Stem   V1     Boulder, 15 feet   Buttermilk Stem/Rowell Rock : Buttermilk Stem Boulder
Green Wall Essential   V2     Boulder, 20 feet   Green Wall Boulder
King Tut   V3     Boulder, 15 feet   Tut Boulder
Funky Tut   V3     Boulder, 15 feet   Tut Boulder
Birthday Direct   V3     Boulder, 12 feet   Birthday Boulders
Iron Man   V4     Boulder   Iron Man Area
Bowling Pin   V4     Boulder   Bowling Pin Boulder
Flyboy Arete   V5     Boulder   Stained Glass/Flyboy Area
Go Granny Go   V5     Boulder, 15 feet   Peabody Boulders : Grandma Peabody Boulder
Pope's Prow   V5-6     Boulder, 15 feet   Pope's Prow/Mandala Boulder
Saigon   V5-6     Boulder, 22 feet   Saigon Boulder
Flyboy   V6-7     Boulder, 18 feet   Stained Glass/Flyboy Area
High Plains Drifter   V6-7     Boulder, 35 feet   Drifter Boulder
Flyboy SDS   V8-     Boulder   Stained Glass/Flyboy Area
Soul Slinger   V9     Boulder, 15 feet   Cave Area
Stained Glass   V10     Boulder   Stained Glass/Flyboy Area
The Mandala   V12-     Boulder, 20 feet   Pope's Prow/Mandala Boulder
Evilution   V12-13 R     Boulder, 55 feet   Peabody Boulders : Grandpa Peabody Boulder
Southwest Arete   5.8+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Peabody Boulders : Grandma Peabody Boulder
Browse More Classics in Buttermilks Main

Featured Route For Buttermilks Main
The Mandala.

The Mandala V12-  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Pope's Prow/Mandala Boulder
This world renown problem was first climbed by Chris Sharma in the Spring of 2000, and fittingly, it represents the litmus test for the boulderer of the new millennium. The problem was originally a project tried by many strong climbers of the last decade or so, and it now stands as rite of passage for the new generation of boulderers. As a few holds have broken since Sharma’s ascent, the climb has become a tad harder and a new sequence has been...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Buttermilks Main Slideshow Add Photo
Original topo for the Peabody (Buttermilk) Boulders from the 1988 Eastside Guide. No complaints about the ratings!

BETA PHOTO: Original topo for the Peabody (Buttermilk) Boulder...

For most, the main attraction of the area:  The boulders that make up the eastern side of Buttermilks Main

For most, the main attraction of the area: The bo...

The Peabodies and their neighbors with a dusting of snow

The Peabodies and their neighbors with a dusting o...

A look at 'Buttermilks Main', from high on the moraine between Mt. Tom and Basin Mtn.

A look at 'Buttermilks Main', from high on the mor...

Bouldering at Buttermilks Main

Bouldering at Buttermilks Main

The Buttermilks

The Buttermilks

Buttermilks

Buttermilks

BH milkin a Buttermilk, photo: Bob Horan Collection

BH milkin a Buttermilk, photo: Bob Horan Collectio...

A good unnamed v2 on the 'Lower Smoking Boulder'.  'The Drifter' is the boulder on the right.

A good unnamed v2 on the 'Lower Smoking Boulder'. ...

Bouldering in the Buttermilks<br />Photo by Jay Droeger

Bouldering in the Buttermilks
Photo by Jay Droeger


West side of 'Buttermilks Main'

West side of 'Buttermilks Main'

Running a train on the 'Iron Man Traverse'

Running a train on the 'Iron Man Traverse'