A slabby ramp leading to a Yosemite like dihedral on beautiful grey rock. The slab is easier terrain with more widely spaced bolts. The crux is near the top of the route and incorporates liebacks and/or stemming. Holds are generally good throughout the entire route. This route is somewhat of an anomoly for the Gorge since it involves more technique opposed to mostly power, making it a climb to not miss.
Location
This route is located about 150 ft left and around the corner from Flex Your Head (5.11c). The large dihedral about 60 ft up cannot be missed. Rappel or lower using one rope.
If you want a Yosemite-like corner, go do Jaws of Life (5.10b) at the Flavin Haven wall.
Also a warning, the anchors have been lowered off of a few too many times. The hooks are worn thin and are in need of replacement. Rappel is recommended.
Right, well, ok then.. Definately one of the best 11's I've done in the gorge. Way more technical than the average 11b at the gorge, but also way less pumpy. Just get on it!
awesome climb!! and it definitely makes you think! the crux is a little height dependent, so it was a lot trickier for the smaller people in our group.
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