The incredibly scenic Buttermilk Country has long been one of California's premier bouldering destinations with a long history of ground-breaking ascents and some of the proudest and prettiest lines in the world, including The Mandala, Evilution, Saigon, and High Plains Drifter. These huge, aesthetic glacial erratic boulders are a coarse monzonite granite with giant blank faces, polished patina plates, slopers and crimpy edges. The rock could perhaps be compared to that found in Joshua Tree, only slightly grainier. If it weren't for the rough and grainy surface, many of the established lines here with slopers and sloping crimps would probably never go. From afar, most of the boulders appear blank and featureless, but as you explore further, you soon realize that your fingers stick to the grainy surface, but with painful consequences such as gory flappers and cheese-grated tips. Fingers tend to get torn up fairly quick, so bring tape in case your callouses aren't sufficient.
Many of the boulder problems here feature reachy standing or jumping starts with huge moves, and on many routes you'll soon find your feet well above a height you'd want to bail at. Don't leave any foam at home, bring all of your pads because many of the classics top out at 20+ feet. Before you hop on a boulder, scout the down-climb first, as many require a big jump to the ground. Be friendly to your neighboring climbers - you may be asking to borrow a pad...
Along with the beautifully unique egg-like boulders, climbers are treated with a splendid backdrop of the towering Sierras, rising almost 14,000 feet to the west. If you get carried away and have over-done it, and you can't boulder anymore there is some fun roped climbing on a handful of small crags not far to the north. If your tips are raw and bleeding, you may want to explore the wacky chasms and rock formations of Buttermilk Dome.
Dog Owners: Rattlesnakes are fairly common in warmer months so take precautions and know the risks if you have a furry friend. My dog had a close call and I've heard of a few other run-ins. Most dogs know to avoid them, just be careful. A bite to your pup's face could ruin your trip. Don't let this deter you though, as rattlers usually give plenty of warning that you're getting too close.
Please do not camp at the Peabody Boulders or The Birthday Boulders parking areas. There's plenty of free camping before and after the Buttermilks Main Area.
DO NOT SPEED ON BUTTERMILK ROAD, THE SPEED LIMIT IS 25 MPH!!! Speeding also causes the painfully annoying washboard ruts, so do your part and drive slowly!
Getting There
From downtown Bishop, take W. Line Street/Highway 168 west towards the Sierras. After eight miles, turn right onto the unpaved Buttermilk Road. Follow this bumpy, washboard road for approximately 3.5 miles to the boulders on your right. If you pass the Peabodies without noticing, you probably aren't a climber, because they are huge! The boulders are incredibly obvious on the right (North) side of the road. Park in designated areas.
For more complete information refer to: "Bishop Area Rock Climbs" by John Moynier and Marty Lewis.
Climb the obvious rail from the left. Easy moves provide encouragement, until the rail gets smaller. Good incuts and determination help gain the sloper on the right lip. Match on this and swing your right foot high and complete a classic....[more]
Buttermilk Country
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