This is the beautiful and prominent arete of the tower. It is tricky and sustained right from the start. A stick clip is a good idea if you're not solid in the grade (or even if you are). The rock is slick and somewhat polished making the small footholds tricky. Figuring out when to switch sides of the arete is important. At the 6th bolt things ease a bit leading to the spicey but easy run to the anchors. A definite must do classic.
My favorite line in the Gorge...a very fun route indeed. The guidebook I have lists it at 5.10a which felt about right. (Hey, if a punter like me can lead it, it can't be all that hard, right?) I had good beta though--might feel like 10b if you're doing a true on-sight.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Oct 1, 2007 rating: 5.10a
HAAAA!! Sanbdbagged? It's sustained 5.9 climbing at its finest. .10b ??? HAAAAA!
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree May 28, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Wow, I never noticed the FA team before. Ayers, Strassman and EFR?
When I was there this past week it appears the last bolt to the anchors is no longer there, making a nice little 20 foot runout to the anchors. Great climb!
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