Mountain Project: Climbing Owens River Gorge

The Owens River Gorge is California's most concentrated sport-climbing area. It is really a year-round crag, although summers can be a bit hot. There are many moderate sport climbs in the sub 5.10 range, but the best gorge climbs seem to be in the 5.10-5.11 range. The climbing is on volcanic tuff and features edges, pockets and cracks. Most of the climbing is close to vertical but there are some steep lines as well, namely at the Eldorado Roof and the Dilithium Crystal. Most climbs, whether face, crack, corner, even off-width and chimney, are fully sport bolted. There are some good trad lines, but sport climbing is why you're here. The gorge is often crowded but if you hike a little further you can usually find some solitude. The Warm Up Wall, the Pub, the Social Platform, the China Wall and the Dilithium Crystal are the most popular areas. Please buy Marty Lewis' "Owens River Gorge Climbs" if you are going to climb here. It's a great guide to the hundreds of climbs and you'll feel good supporting the guy who put up a huge percentage of the climbs and did a large amount of work (trails, research, bridges, talking with the LADWP that owns the gorge). It's a small price to pay for a great climbing area.

Getting There

From Bishop go North on 395 to the Paradise Swall Meadows exit and turn right. At the T intersection turn left (Gorge Rd). There are 3 parking areas to choose depending on where in the Gorge you wish to climb. The first (the road) is 3.3 miles, the second (the central gully) is 4.8 miles and the last (the Upper gorge) is 6.4 miles. The first approach is down the middle power plant road. It's about a mile downhill on paved road. The middle approach is down a steep 2nd/3rd class loose gully. Be careful not to dislodge anything because there are climbs below the gully. The far approach starts on the upper power plant rd and then drops in to the left down a 3rd-class gully.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Owens River Gorge:

Babushka 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Central Gorge : Warm Up Wall

Heart of the Sun 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Central Gorge : Great Wall of China

Child of Light 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Central Gorge : Great Wall of China

Show Us Your Tits 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Central Gorge : Emergency Room

Sendero Luminoso 5.10b R Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Central Gorge : The Solarium

Gorgeous 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Upper Gorge : Gorgeous Towers

Superfly 5.10c Sport, 180 feet Upper Gorge : Gotham City

Yellow Peril 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet Central Gorge : Great Wall of China

Hardly Wallbanger 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Central Gorge : The Pub Wall

Love Stinks 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet Central Gorge : Banana Belt

O.R.G.asam 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Upper Gorge : Dihedrals

Hungover 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Central Gorge : The Pub Wall

Towering Inferno 5.11b Sport, 5 pitches, 480 feet Inner Gorge : Eldorado Roof

Expressway 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Central Gorge : Social Platform

Photon Torpedo 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet Inner Gorge : The Dilithium Crystal

Grindrite 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Upper Gorge : Gotham City

Santana 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet Central Gorge : Social Platform

From Chocolate to Morphine 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Central Gorge : Faulty Tower

Enterprise 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Inner Gorge : The Dilithium Crystal

Darshan (aka Ripoff) 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Central Gorge : Social Platform

Photos of Owens River Gorge

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Owens River Gorge from the rim	Red-pointing in the Owens River Gorge at Solarium....	Climbing in Owens River Gorge. Photo by Blitzo.
The Gorge. Photo by Blitzo.	Owen's River Gorge Pickpocket 11a	Machine Gun Jumblies 10a
The approach into the Central Gorge	Lauren McGeoch cruising 'Crash Landing' .11a	The chalk is as close to gym tape as it gets for c...
White Mountain peak from the lower gorge parking a...	Defeated	Unusual climber: Look closer
Unknown free-soloist in the Gorge, 10/17/08	Rainbow over the Eastern Sierra, as viewed from th...	The Gorge, viewed from Little Egypt to the south
Camping in the Pinyons, April 2009: Friday night.....	...and Sunday morning. Great scenery, no scene.	The late John Bachar in the Gorge. Rest in peace.

Comments on Owens River Gorge

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By david goldstein
Jul 29, 2006

This is probably my favorite sport-climbing area. The characteristic climbs feature endurance vertical edge pulling (with a lot of pockets) -- gym fitness really pays off here. There are enough decent trad climbs to keep you honest.

One note of caution is that walking by the river exposes one to some extremely potent stingy nettles, the buzz from which can last many hours; learn to identify and avoid these or wear long pants and socks.

The locals have put a lot of time, money and effort into really setting this place up with trails, bridges, belay platforms and drop in anchors. Please repay their generosity by taking care of what they've created. In particular, DON'T TOPROPE DIRECTLY THROUGH THE ANCHORS. Despite the fact that heavy-duty steel anchors are used, many are worn almost all the way through (some all the way). This dangerous state of affairs is primarily caused by toproping directly through the anchors which is completely avoidable -- whoever sets up the rope should clip a quickdraw through each anchor and run the rope through the draws; the last person up then puts the rope directly through the anchors, cleans the draws and lowers, or even better, rappels.

By brent armstrong
From: Closer to RR than the Strip
Mar 14, 2007

I just took my first trip here. I wanted to praise Marty Lewis for releasing a superb guide (imho). I found it very clear, concise, and ontop of the area.

I consider myself a climbing geek, and fairly well-travelled. This guide was probably one of the better organised guides I have ever used, and well worth the money.

Nice job sir.

By 426
Mar 26, 2007

Many routes are LONG; if you bring a 60 or less, plz tie a knott. I've witnessed several deckings over the years from 'short' ropes. Best bet is a 70m or longer.

By brthomas6
Dec 6, 2008

Here is a list of links on climbing & other recreation in Owens River Gorge and nearby.

� Owens River Conservation & Recreation Directory. (1=whitewater, 2=rafting, 3=conservation, 4=fishing, 5=climbing-camping-hiking, 6=local-info)

By crimpnasty
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 14, 2009

Is ORG climbable Nov-Feb?

By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Sep 16, 2009

ORG is climbable year round. On the colder winter months watch out for ice on the steep central descent. You can find spots in the sun on really cold days.

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Owens River Gorge

Description

Getting There

The Classics